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Thread: Embarrassing admission....Happy Number 38 guitar to me.

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  1. #1
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    I had a look at the neck and the body today.....over 24hrs hanging and drying. The fact that wood is a natural product is both confusing and beautiful. I find lines and areas where the stain does not penetrate...and other places where it looks like a tide mark.

    I am happy with coverage of the stain, and today I put the headstock logos on. A new process I saw on YouTube. It worked really well.

    I bought a roll of expensive clear packing tape. I then used my colour laser printer and printed the desired logos on normal A4 paper at higher colour density.

    Then cut a section of tape bigger than the desired decal. Then put it down on the front of the decal words/designs. I then used the soft round edges of a rubberised pair scissors to rub the tape down on to the printed decal. About 2 mins of rubbing.

    Then cut close to the decal. Drop the cut out decal into a bowl of room temperature water and leave for 5 minutes. Softly use my fingers to roll and ball up the paper on the back of the tape until it was clear with the printed decal being the only thing left behind.

    I then dropped the decal onto the headstock and dabbed the water dry. They I used an old bank atm card and pushed the water and air out from under the tape. I then hung the neck to dry for about four hours. I then repeated the bubble squish again with the atm card.

    I will let it hang until Wednesday and then spray a couple of coats of Poly over the tape. Then hang for a little...maybe a week and then sand to 600 (wet) and see if it hides the edges of the tape effectively. Maybe some more coats after that....mmmmm....loving the poly it is so easy to spray even for a spray Gumby like me.
    Last edited by ozzbike; 03-01-2021 at 12:09 PM.
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  2. #2
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Hi Ozzbike,
    I have tried the same decal method using packing tape and laser printouts. The process works well. It takes me quite a few layers of tru-oil to cover the edges though. Hopefully the spray poly works well.
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  3. #3
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    Hi Ozzbike,
    I have tried the same decal method using packing tape and laser printouts. The process works well. It takes me quite a few layers of tru-oil to cover the edges though. Hopefully the spray poly works well.
    G'Day Trevor,

    I am using aerosol can polyurethane. This one is a gloss finish. I hope it will cover the tape quicker than Tru Oil.

    This stuff.....

    https://cabots.com.au/product/cabots...oil-spraypack/
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  4. #4
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    Hi Ozzbike,
    I have tried the same decal method using packing tape and laser printouts. The process works well. It takes me quite a few layers of tru-oil to cover the edges though. Hopefully the spray poly works well.
    Trevor,

    How did yours go? I have sprayed and sanded three times now and the edges of the tape are still easy to see.

    The waterslide decals are way thinner and easier to hide. I may have to consider them for the next one.....again.
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  5. #5
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Hmmmmm....the tape is very thick and is going to take some covering.

    I think I will let it hang for a couple of days and then do some wet sanding and see if it loses its edge.

    I am liking the body....it has 2 x 3 coats of poly on it now. I will let it hang until next week....and then wet sand to 600 and see what I have. I may have to buy another tin. I think I should have sealed the body with CA glue first as it is soaking up the poly like a sponge.
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  6. #6
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    DIY stuff.

    I had to go to the BIG Green shed today...and here on the sunny coast an Officeworks is right next door.

    So after reading some stuff...watching a video or two...I have decided to give making my own conductive shielding paint a go. I got some graphite powder for about $5 from the tool shop of the big green shed, the water based acrylic paint was $10 from Officeworks and the paintbrush was $1-70....I did not need the containers but I thought why not....$3-00.

    So lets see how conductive I can make it.
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  8. #7
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Keen to see how that works out

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  9. #8
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Setting up your own version of the Frankenwashie Lab in Buderim?

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  10. #9
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    Setting up your own version of the Frankenwashie Lab in Buderim?

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    Oh does Frankie do the same stuff? Maybe I should read his threads....it may save me some time. Thanks.
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  11. #10
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Don't think so. It just sounded like an Egor type of experimental activity.
    I have used conductive shielding paint a few times but bought pre made stuff on eBay.
    Tend to think your idea should work.
    Cheers Waz

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