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Thread: Travelling guitar.

  1. #1
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Travelling guitar.

    Hi.
    Thanks to Enikoy’s kind donation I have a box of guitar parts.
    Thanks to my efforts I have surplus neck with no headstock to speak of.
    The plan is to make a travelling guitar with the above, some left over IKEA parts, scrap wood and anything else I can find to avoid going out and spending money.
    It will be my first soldering attempt so be prepared for noob questions.
    It will probably turn out quite agriculturally looking which is fine as it could get knocked about in transit.

  2. #2
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    6-string cigar box guitar?

  3. #3
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    To be honest, I don’t know. Materials will help dictate to final design.

  4. #4
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Ok, so to work out the position of a fixed bridge is to measure from the nut to the middle of the 12th fret and double.
    313mm x 2 = 626mm by my calculations. However, I think I have read how there is more to it involving measuring to an E saddle wound all the way forward (towards the nut direction). I wish I had been paying better attention now. Can anyone elaborate? Thanks.

    Edit: Using flat wound strings.
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  5. #5
    If it's a tele or Strat style fixed bridge, you want to measure to the high E string saddle. The saddle should be close to it's furthest amount of travel towards the nut, but not fully maxed incase you get any fine measurements wrong and need to compensate down the track.

    The idea is the low E always sits back the most in common intonation and the other strings incrementally in between. This pic should explain the general shape of the saddles



  6. #6

  7. Liked by: Bakersdozen

  8. #7
    Member impala59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    If it's a tele or Strat style fixed bridge, you want to measure to the high E string saddle. The saddle should be close to it's furthest amount of travel towards the nut, but not fully maxed incase you get any fine measurements wrong and need to compensate down the track.

    The idea is the low E always sits back the most in common intonation and the other strings incrementally in between. This pic should explain the general shape of the saddles


    Does that always apply with 25.5" scale?
    Is it always best to set the bridge position using the high E as datum?
    What if using a shorter scale?
    Sorry if asking basic questions but am only recently getting involved in building. Is there a formula to follow? I ask as I have built some 34" scale basses and maybe just got lucky with positioning and subsequent intonation

  9. #8
    Absolutely no need to guess. Right here. https://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by impala59 View Post
    Does that always apply with 25.5" scale?
    Is it always best to set the bridge position using the high E as datum?
    What if using a shorter scale?
    Yes, as the other strings traditionally intonate further back.

    You will see a lot of tune-o-matic style bridges are angled, with the low E the furthest back from the nut. Also some adjustable saddle bridges (think Strat and tele style) come with the adjustment screws in staggered lengths, with the shortest screws toward the bass end.

    Same deal with any size scale lengths. Just remember to have the high E saddle close to the front end of travel, but not fully maxed out just in case. If you have a decent search, there are heaps of posts in here going into further detail on the matter. I remember Mr @Simon Barden has written a few great in-depth posts about this.
    Last edited by Bakersdozen; 19-04-2020 at 06:44 AM.

  11. #10
    Member impala59's Avatar
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    Thanks guys I think I’ve got it! My project on temp hold as have an arthritis issue, should be ok in a few days hopefully

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