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Thread: TL-1 - Balmain

  1. #1
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    TL-1 - Balmain

    Don't judge me. I needed some parts, so I also ordered this for a future project code-named "Balmain". I'll explain that later, but for now...

    I was about to start hacking into it, but thought I better double-check the scale length and bridge placement.

    Is this cool? It seems a little on the long side, but maybe that's fine with this bridge style?

    Last edited by dozymuppet; 08-08-2021 at 10:05 AM.

  2. #2
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    Heyo, that looks right. Generally on a tele the end of the bridge is in line with the control cover, or only slightly behind, but your saddles look okay and scale length seems correct.

    Waiting for the experts to weigh in though.

  3. #3
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    25.5” scale, and you look to be at 25.25” ATM. If the bridge plate can move back a bit, by about 1/4”, then I’d do it. You don’t want the intonation springs squashed up too tightly on the bass strings side or the saddle screws sitting on the bridge mounting screws. With a standard Tele scratchplate, you’re also in danger of the bridge plate intruding on the scratchplate, instead of leaving the normal 2-3mm gap. But if you are making your own scratchplate, or happy to mod a bought one, then it doesn’t really matter as you can adjust to suit.

  4. #4
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Nah, the scratchplate is fitting fine.

    It's no big drama to pull it back a few mm. I was actually thinking it needed to move forward a few mm, which would require a little bit extra space.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

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  6. #6
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    All good then. I'll continue hacking away.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    So this is project "Balmain". I was looking lovingly into my wife's eyes, then I zoned/zoomed out and was suddenly inspired...



    A milky greenish, semi-opaque finish, with gold trimmings. A TL style seemed appropriate, but before purchasing the kit, I needed to do some R&D.

    Getting the colour right was one problem, but the depth required for the milky finish was going to be interesting. I happened across some furniture projects that were using milk paint to get a vintage look, So I sourced some from a place over east, and tried a couple of options.



    The test was on paulownia (a lot more open grain than basswood). One side was a base of the milk paint, then clear poly brew over the top. The other side (in the photo) was the milk paint into the poly brew.



    The results were enough for me to decide this was the right stuff for the project. I'll make some adjustments in the colour mix, and will probably put down a thin base coat that is a whiter mix, then start adding depth every 5 to 10 poly/paint layers, adjusting the colour mix slightly between each batch.
    Last edited by dozymuppet; 08-08-2021 at 10:06 AM.

  8. #8
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You should check whether the poly you're using has a UV blocker, as the milk paint will bleach in UV.

  9. #9
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    I'd be OK with that, to be honest.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  10. Liked by: ross.pearson

  11. #10
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    This is my kind of project, really looking forward to seeing how this goes.

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