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Thread: Second build - Custom IB4 Bass

  1. #11
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    Yes, I think this will be the easiest way. Also thought about some aluminium plate, but wood will be easier to handle and adjust.

    I think the control cavity will take the most time of the kit this time...I also want the cover for the electronics on the same lvl as the body, so habe to work it inside.

  2. #12
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    Made some work on details, a little of individual shaping, smoothing the edges of cavities...

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    Don't know how to get rid of the sanding (white) stripes on the outer round edge of the body...maybe more and finer sanding...

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    Also made a solution for fixing the output jack, that will hopefully work
    Thinking to put the control cover on some wood dowels...

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    Build #1 Explorer EXM-1
    Build #2 IB-4 P-Bass
    Build #3 Single-Cut
    Epiphone Gothic Modifying and upgrading
    Build #4 HB-4 Custom

  3. #13
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You could use magnets rather than screws to keep the control cover on. Other people here have done that. No risk of splitting the dowels then.

    Zooming in on the photo, the white lines on the end of the body look as if it's where you've sanded the wood smoother than the surrounding wood and the open engrain pores have filled up with fine sawdust. You'll probably find the lines go if you put some clear coat on. Or you could wet the wood with some turpentine or methylated spirit and see what is looks like wet, as that should tell you what it will look like with a clear coat on. It's also a good method to show up any scratch marks from sanding that are hard to see when the wood's dry.

  4. #14
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Hi Alexej,
    re the dowels - you could use 20 mm dowel cut in half to avoid any splitting issues with the screws.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  5. #15
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    Good point about the splitting. I am going to use the following solution, already used this way of attaching on the explorer.
    The dowels are 10mm and it seems to work if doing it carefully.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I had nothink but water to wet the body. The white "stripes" are still visible, the material at this parts feels kind of flat/soft. I will try to sand it more, to get a more smooth gradient to the round edge.

    Also some glue is visible, dont know how to get rid of that, maybe just more sanding, but not sure this will help.

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    For the finish I think about some oil to get a smooth matte surface. Came upon this brand and wanted to try it out.
    Just in general, do I have to care about something for applying oil after finishing the sanding. Is there something else to add before the oil? Some cleaning?

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    Build #1 Explorer EXM-1
    Build #2 IB-4 P-Bass
    Build #3 Single-Cut
    Epiphone Gothic Modifying and upgrading
    Build #4 HB-4 Custom

  6. #16
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Ooh, I’ve had my eye on the Walrus Oil for a while. Keen to see how that goes for you.

    In terms of prep, as long as you’ve got a pretty even feel, then just make sure it’s free of sawdust. A wipe down with shellite should be enough.

  7. #17

  8. #18

  9. #19
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    After some sanding sessions the body develops better and better. 400 grit was the final one. I think this should be enough for a smooth and not too shiny surface, before getting some oil on it. Cleaned it with some kind of turpentine, looks fine.

    Ordered some ashe 2mm veneer for making the electronics cover. Took some time to shape it. Not a perfect result, but quiet fine for me at this point. Still thinking about how to attach the cover, using magnets or screws. Will try some 5mm magnets, but somehow crews feel more confidently. So still not sure. And black screws would look fine, for black string ferrules of the string through body will also be on the back.

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    A bit afraid of the string through body drilling, but feel the need for that, let's see
    Build #1 Explorer EXM-1
    Build #2 IB-4 P-Bass
    Build #3 Single-Cut
    Epiphone Gothic Modifying and upgrading
    Build #4 HB-4 Custom

  10. #20
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    Finished the control cover for the moment. Did not go well with magnets. It is too curvy and needs more tension to keep it with the shape of teh body, so I went for the screws, maybe some flat srews will be better.

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    Now I am thinking about the placement of the bridge and the string through body arrangement.

    Got some information about the measurements, but am not sure if this is right. The scale is 34", so about 86,36 cm. I measured 86,2 (2 x nut > 12th fret) Do I just take this double distance from the 12th fret to the nut and take the distance of the 86,2 cm to the middle of the bridge and this is the right place? Looks quiet near to the pickups in my opinion. Another option I read of is placing the 86,2 cm in the first 3rd of the bridge (looking from the neck.) Or is middle just fine?

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    I am also not sure about the string through body bridge. If placed like it is suppposed, the strings will cut into the wood, I suppose. Ferrules are placed in the back to hold the strings, but I found no ferrules for the Bass in the front (There are some just for guitars).

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    Had somebody experience with this issue? Thx!
    Build #1 Explorer EXM-1
    Build #2 IB-4 P-Bass
    Build #3 Single-Cut
    Epiphone Gothic Modifying and upgrading
    Build #4 HB-4 Custom

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