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Thread: TD's Scratchy Thinline

  1. #1
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    TD's Scratchy Thinline

    After starting work on my TL-1TB kit I decided I needed to have a go at making a tele in the style of a 69 thinline. Mainly 1) for the challenge, and
    2) for the fact that I really like the thinline pickguard!

    Down the track (and if this works) I plan have a go at a thinline LP Junior.

    I have made a set of templates out of 12 mm MDF. The main body template is designed to be screwed onto the body slab. The other templates, for the inside body routings, have a large enough area to support the router and allow me to clamp them onto my body slab and bench (though I may need to cut out the corners so that I can get greater access with my clamps). The corner "holes "allow me to line up the body (I should have made them the same shape - oh well!)

    While I was on a roll I routed a few variations in terms of the control cavity route and the ability to have humbuckers.

    I will make a pine slab and then test them out.
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    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2 (Runner up GOTM May 2021), TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary (current), Scratchy Thinline (current),

  2. #2
    Mentor vh2580's Avatar
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    Looks good Trevor, bit of work hogging out the hollow body waste area but worth it .
    Another good way to assist in locating the templates is the holes for the bridge mounting . In mine I have two 3mm holes and drill two in body and glue on top and use 3mm rod (shaft end of drill bits) in each hole to locate each template onto body to assist clamping or double sided tape adhesion.
    Tony

  3. #3
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vh2580 View Post
    Looks good Trevor, bit of work hogging out the hollow body waste area but worth it .
    Another good way to assist in locating the templates is the holes for the bridge mounting . In mine I have two 3mm holes and drill two in body and glue on top and use 3mm rod (shaft end of drill bits) in each hole to locate each template onto body to assist clamping or double sided tape adhesion.
    Thanks for the "drill bit" tip.

    As for hogging out the body I thought I could use a ply wood top and back! I could then jigsaw out the main parts of the cavities. Hopefully I have a few possibilities to trial.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2 (Runner up GOTM May 2021), TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary (current), Scratchy Thinline (current),

  4. #4
    Wow, looking forward to hearing how this progresses.

    One day I'd love to have a story along the lines of "a really nice piece of wood" or "a piece of wood with some historical or sentimental significance" came into my possession and I decided to turn it into a guitar.

    I've always wanted to have/do a thinline so please post lots of pictures and updates.

  5. #5
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Watching this one with interest Trevor.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    I Like the flexibility you've given yourself with the template set Trev, lots of possibilities with that set up.

    I should have thought of something like your chambering template before making my Zebrano/Maple Blank. Would have dropped the weight substantially.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  7. #7
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Thanks FrankenWashie.

    Not sure about the f-hole though. I think I want to try something a bit different (but routable)!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2 (Runner up GOTM May 2021), TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary (current), Scratchy Thinline (current),

  8. #8
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Do you need any sort of F-hole at all? Just have it internally chambered for weight relief. Acoustically that small chamber in a thinline is supposed to do nothing for the amplified sound (well, I've seen a lot of videos from different people I trust, including a Fender custom shop worker IIRC, that say that there is no difference in the sound, as I can't speak from my own experience).

  9. #9
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Do you need any sort of F-hole at all? Just have it internally chambered for weight relief. Acoustically that small chamber in a thinline is supposed to do nothing for the amplified sound (well, I've seen a lot of videos from different people I trust, including a Fender custom shop worker IIRC, that say that there is no difference in the sound, as I can't speak from my own experience).
    True, and some hollow bodies do not have an f-hole (like Malcom Young's Gretsch).
    However, I do like the decorative side of a f-hole even if it makes no difference. Ha ha
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2 (Runner up GOTM May 2021), TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary (current), Scratchy Thinline (current),

  10. #10
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    True, and some hollow bodies do not have an f-hole (like Malcom Young's Gretsch).
    However, I do like the decorative side of a f-hole even if it makes no difference. Ha ha
    Im choking back some VERY risqué decorative f-hole material lads…. Shall we move on?
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


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