First Build - PSH-1 Hollowbody

[Bakersdozen]

Hi Bakersdozen, I bought the Kaish locking studs that have the black allen key screws. Do you know what the thread size is? Will take your advice about replacing them.

Hi there! I can't remember the exact thread size, I have tipped them out into my nuts and bolts storage container without the box, sorry. I just took one down to the hardware shop and sized them up accordingly .

[mrpearson]

Hi there! I can't remember the exact thread size, I have tipped them out into my nuts and bolts storage container without the box, sorry. I just took one down to the hardware shop and sized them up accordingly .

I ended up binning the locking studs. They didn’t fit the musiclily or kit bridge at all. Also the musiclily bridge vibrated way too much but it had good intonation adjustment range. I ended up with a gotoh bridge which has a locking post system built in. No rattles and much better sustain. How ever the intonation range adjust is very limited and I neatly had a dud guitar. Luckily reversing the saddles did the trick.


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[dbeltrami]

Thanks. I saw your previous post about the studs not fitting. Did you purchase the metric version?
My set are ok. I haven’t tried them with the kit bridge but they are fine with my Wilkinson replacement. You just need to line up the slot correctly otherwise they won’t close down properly when you tighten the screw.

[Simon Barden]

Nothing wrong with them at all if made of a strong metal, but these ones are soft and strip/round the hex socket easily.

[McCreed]

...but you don't want to get the head stripped while they are locked in place and wish to remove them. Not a fun job.

But I thought you loved a good challenge BD?????

[mrpearson]

Morning all. About to commence my tru-oil ritual but can anyone provide some guidance on how to deal with binding especially on the neck and around f-holes.

My plan is to tape up the fret board on the top only including the top of the neck binding and leave the sides of the neck binding exposed to be covered with tru-oil when I do the neck.

Also do most people do 30 coats of tru-oil on the neck or does this have a thinner layer compared to the body ?

For the f holes I have plan to try-oil over the binding. As tru-oil ads an amber tinge I was hoping there is a technique to avoid going over the binding.

Tips / tricks most welcomed.


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[Bakersdozen]

But I thought you loved a good challenge BD?????

Yeh! I do - but not that much of a challenge when it breaks my soul to get the damn thing fixed.

For the f holes I have plan to try-oil over the binding. As tru-oil ads an amber tinge I was hoping there is a technique to avoid going over the binding.

Tips / tricks most welcomed.

@DarkMark suggested a great idea here previously. He coats the binding in wipe on poly to avoid any stain bleeding in. You could do the same prior to the TruOil to avoid it darkening the binding if that is what you are trying to avoid. You could then just level everything back out once complete and hopefully the level of both clear poly and TruOil would line up?

[Trevor Davies]

"My plan is to tape up the fret board on the top only including the top of the neck binding and leave the sides of the neck binding exposed to be covered with tru-oil when I do the neck". That is how I did my LP-1SS.

"Also do most people do 30 coats of tru-oil on the neck or does this have a thinner layer compared to the body ?" I think I did about 15 coats on the LP-1ss mahogany neck. The maple neck I'm doing at the moment also has had 15 coats.

"For the f holes I have plan to try-oil over the binding. As tru-oil ads an amber tinge I was hoping there is a technique to avoid going over the binding." I have not had a kit with f-hole binding. My suggestion would be to do the same for the f-hole binding as you are for the body binding - so they end up with the same tint.

I hope this helps.

[McCreed]

Also do most people do 30 coats of tru-oil on the neck or does this have a thinner layer compared to the body ?

When it comes to Tru Oil, I think there are as many methods as there are people applying it.
Depending on what you want to achieve will determine how much or how little you apply, and where. You can do just enough on the neck to seal the timber, but you may find it needs to be re-applied occasionally to keep it protected (depending on how much you play it).

My builds (1 body and multiple necks) that have a Tru Oil finish have a minimum of 24 coats (more likely 28-30) but that's because I wanted a good glossy look and I like the feel of the necks with that level of finish.
I've seen many builds here and elsewhere that go as high as 50. I just lack the patience to take it that far.

[mrpearson]

When it comes to Tru Oil, I think there are as many methods as there are people applying it.
Depending on what you want to achieve will determine how much or how little you apply, and where. You can do just enough on the neck to seal the timber, but you may find it needs to be re-applied occasionally to keep it protected (depending on how much you play it).

My builds (1 body and multiple necks) that have a Tru Oil finish have a minimum of 24 coats (more likely 28-30) but that's because I wanted a good glossy look and I like the feel of the necks with that level of finish.
I've seen many builds here and elsewhere that go as high as 50. I just lack the patience to take it that far.

I am thinking 30 coats or until my bottle of oil runs out. I need to bury a couple of decals on the headstock as well.


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