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  1. #1
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Think I'm going to mix up some homebrew tru-oil this weekend.

    Not sure if I'll do boiled linseed or pure tung oil yet, but at the moment am thinking 60/30/10, being oil/poly/white spirit.

  2. #2
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dozymuppet View Post
    Think I'm going to mix up some homebrew tru-oil this weekend.

    Not sure if I'll do boiled linseed or pure tung oil yet, but at the moment am thinking 60/30/10, being oil/poly/white spirit.
    Interested to see how that goes. Proper finishing has been the biggest PITA for me.

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dozymuppet View Post
    Think I'm going to mix up some homebrew tru-oil this weekend.

    Not sure if I'll do boiled linseed or pure tung oil yet, but at the moment am thinking 60/30/10, being oil/poly/white spirit.
    I think it's Bakersdozen that has a successful recipe for DIY Tru Oil, so maybe he'll weigh in.

    FWIW, I experimented with it a few years ago and started with the mixing ratio I'd commonly seen in forums of equal parts BLO, Poly, Turps. For whatever reason it just didn't work for me. Compared to the genuine Tru Oil (which I A/B'ed it with) it took longer to set, and the build-up took longer also.

    It was at that point I played around with variations in the ratios, but still no joy. IIRC, Bakersdozen uses/used a different kind of BLO than I did, so maybe that was the key. Dunno.
    This was around the time I started using a spray gun for all my finishes, so I never revisited the homebrew TO thing. Hopefully you have better success.

    Also, hopefully I have correctly named Bakersdozen and not dropped him into something he knows nothing about!

    EDIT:
    After having a quick look around, I thought it worth mentioning that Pure Tung Oil (no added driers) takes a long time "dry", but then again so does BLO.
    Last edited by McCreed; 05-03-2022 at 06:43 AM.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #4
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Thanks McCreed. Yep, the drying time is what I'm mostly worried about. I've had a look around for things like japan driers, but so far not finding much easily accessible.

    The main reason I'm even bothering with the idea is the relative difficulty sourcing Tru oil at the moment.

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  5. #5
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    I'm also considering trying this new product: https://www.timbecon.com.au/walrus-oil-furniture-finish

    "It’s made of polymerising Safflower oil, tung oil, hemp seed oil with a hint of lime for freshness."

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  6. #6
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    The main reason I'm even bothering with the idea is the relative difficulty sourcing Tru oil at the moment.
    I didn't realise there was a shortage, but I guess there's not much that hasn't been impacted by the pandemic.

    My only concern about the Walrus Oil would be that it is described as a "penetrating oil" rather than a "drying oil" despite using the the word polymerising. I find their information confusing.
    A true penetrating oil (eg: pure tung oil) will not give the same finish as ones that are membrane finishes (eg: polyurethanes).
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  7. #7
    From my experience. I'd start with a small batch (enough for one full liberal coat) of the blo recipe you listed. Put that on and let it soak in for a good 15mins, then wipe off. You'll find that the oil keeps rising, so keep coming back to it and wipe again until you don't see it rise anymore. Then let that cure fully. After that I'd just carry on with homebrew wipe on poly for the remainder coats. This would be the fastest way as once that first coat of blo has soaked in, the subsequent layers do take a while to cure, which is why I'd then just take the blo out if the equation.

    YMMV as different climates play a big part, so maybe try it on scrap first to get the vibe of the thing.

  8. #8
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    From my experience. I'd start with a small batch (enough for one full liberal coat) of the blo recipe you listed. Put that on and let it soak in for a good 15mins, then wipe off. You'll find that the oil keeps rising, so keep coming back to it and wipe again until you don't see it rise anymore. Then let that cure fully. After that I'd just carry on with homebrew wipe on poly for the remainder coats. This would be the fastest way as once that first coat of blo has soaked in, the subsequent layers do take a while to cure, which is why I'd then just take the blo out if the equation.

    YMMV as different climates play a big part, so maybe try it on scrap first to get the vibe of the thing.
    What's the purpose of having the BLO in the equation at all if you're just going over it with poly anyway?
    If it's about tint or colour, that can easily be accomplished by tinting the poly.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    What's the purpose of having the BLO in the equation at all if you're just going over it with poly anyway?
    If it's about tint or colour, that can easily be accomplished by tinting the poly.
    The Blo soaks into the wood and gives it a beautiful feel and look. Helps to seal and protect. Colour is a bonus if that's the look your going for. If you have it on hand, far easier than tinting poly. You can keep building it, just takes patience. I was just offering a solution for speedier curing times is all. At the point it stops soaking in - that's when the delay in curing starts..

  10. #10
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    The Blo soaks into the wood and gives it a beautiful feel and look. Helps to seal and protect. Colour is a bonus if that's the look your going for. If you have it on hand, far easier than tinting poly. You can keep building it, just takes patience. I was just offering a solution for speedier curing times is all. At the point it stops soaking in - that's when the delay in curing starts..
    Ah, I see. Was I wrong that you're the one that had success with DIY Tru Oil, or was it another member?
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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