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  1. #1
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You'd either need tuners with a constant diameter shaft designed for slotted headstocks and that are supported from the centre of the headstock as well as from the side, or else for a 'standard' guitar tuner style, locking ones with the locking mechanism at the base, not the top of the post. These Grover Sta-Tite tuners are the sort you want for steel-string acoustic slotted headstocks;: https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/hardware-p...-mounting-p702

    With non-locking tuners, some strings you'd want to wind from the central string hole towards the outside, and some towards the centre. (those Grover Sta-Tites I lined to have two sets of holes, so you can string from the inside of the slot outwards, which can help keep the string wraps pulling against each other for more friction and better tuning stability).

    There just isn't the space to do the winding towards the inside on a conventional electric-guitar style tuner, as the string is likely to slip off the end if you put more than a turn or so on (though it can depend on the tuner design). As you won't need more than one turn on a locking tuner, then these are much better to use than conventional tubers if you go for the type that are only supported from the side. Locking tuners would also be quicker to restring than any other type, as slotted headstocks make restringing a lot more fiddly than a flat headstock as you haven't got clear 360° access.

    Some pretty technical people reckon that having a tuner that's supported at both ends does improve the tone and sustain a bit, which is why slotted headstocks are still popular, especially on smaller-bodied guitars where any improvement in sustain and a fuller tone is welcome. So conventional locking tuners may possibly rob you of the tonal benefits of having a slotted headstock. I can't say for sure.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    You'd either need tuners with a constant diameter shaft designed for slotted headstocks and that are supported from the centre of the headstock as well as from the side, or else for a 'standard' guitar tuner style, locking ones with the locking mechanism at the base, not the top of the post. These Grover Sta-Tite tuners are the sort you want for steel-string acoustic slotted headstocks;: https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/hardware-p...-mounting-p702

    With non-locking tuners, some strings you'd want to wind from the central string hole towards the outside, and some towards the centre. (those Grover Sta-Tites I lined to have two sets of holes, so you can string from the inside of the slot outwards, which can help keep the string wraps pulling against each other for more friction and better tuning stability).

    There just isn't the space to do the winding towards the inside on a conventional electric-guitar style tuner, as the string is likely to slip off the end if you put more than a turn or so on (though it can depend on the tuner design). As you won't need more than one turn on a locking tuner, then these are much better to use than conventional tubers if you go for the type that are only supported from the side. Locking tuners would also be quicker to restring than any other type, as slotted headstocks make restringing a lot more fiddly than a flat headstock as you haven't got clear 360° access.

    Some pretty technical people reckon that having a tuner that's supported at both ends does improve the tone and sustain a bit, which is why slotted headstocks are still popular, especially on smaller-bodied guitars where any improvement in sustain and a fuller tone is welcome. So conventional locking tuners may possibly rob you of the tonal benefits of having a slotted headstock. I can't say for sure.
    Rummaging around in the workshop yesterday, I actually found a set of what appear to be classical tuners, which I may try for the lappie - I read your comment about the post diameter determining the ease/accuracy of tuning, but I figure I'll give them a shot anyway.
    Failing that, I'll get something like those sta-tites. I have a similar style set of sta-tites (non-classical) on another guitar, and they're great.

  3. #3
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarmonIser View Post
    Rummaging around in the workshop yesterday, I actually found a set of what appear to be classical tuners, which I may try for the lappie - I read your comment about the post diameter determining the ease/accuracy of tuning, but I figure I'll give them a shot anyway.
    Failing that, I'll get something like those sta-tites. I have a similar style set of sta-tites (non-classical) on another guitar, and they're great.
    I'd go straight for the proper item. You'd need to drill out for the much larger string posts, which will give you a lot of work to do filling in and re-drilling when you find the classical tuners aren't working well. You'll also get a fair bit of wear over time from the steel strings on the plastic posts.

  4. Liked by: HarmonIser

  5. #4
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    The tuners I’m using look similar to the ones in Simon’s link...but mine are a little cheaper.

  6. #5
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Neck attached. Stained to match the back and darker areas of the burst with a few coats of satin poly.
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  7. Liked by: HarmonIser

  8. #6
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Phwoar....

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  10. #8
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Now that, Sir, is an object of beauty. Very much looking forward to the final outcome here.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  11. #9
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    New photo resizer, old no longer compatible (grumble grumble)
    One more coat on the back and I’m ready to let it sit and wait for it’s final polish.

    Some things I’ve neglected to mention if anyone’s interested.
    This veneer wasn’t too bad for glue spots apart from at the edges.
    As already discussed I dug out the central join and replaced with timbermate. The timbermate stained a bit dark but that’s ok. Moving on the the outside edges I coated the binding with poly, and auto tape once the poly was set. The auto tape sits high so I scraped timbermate around the edges and sanded level to the tape. This covered the obvious glue at the edge. The photo is the worst spot, you can just make out staining variation at the inside edge of the timbermate (next to the small light reflection) which I can certainly live with.

    Headstock had bit of a twist in it which I hopefully have nullified (enough) by a longer narrower design.

    Thanks DM, Simon and FW.
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  12. #10
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    One more photo for the road for you and new app education for me.
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