New build GR-1SF

[Simon Barden]

Just looking on the web and a few people were complaining that their real Bigsby arms were too low and were looking for ways to lower them. But if you can live with the visual aspect and it’s OK to reach to from your normal playing position, then my only concern would be getting a case or gig bag for it that fits. The spring is sticking up more than a normal Bigsby, so even though the arm folds over out of the way, it may become an issue in that respect. It’s not something I remember reading any posts about here, either positive or negative.

Just note that any new photos should avoid showing any G*****h logos or they’ll get removed by the mods.

[GreyFloyd]

Promise not to publish any more photos!! Signing off until PB number 6 whatever that'll be - and hoping her indoors is agreeable!!!

[GreyFloyd]

Back for a second 'go' at the Gretsch. Didn't like the understated Dingotone supposedly 'butterscotch' so decided I needed a green guitar in my collection. Gave her a six-coat paint finish then three coats of Tru Oil and finally some Dingotone wax. Looking good BUT when refitting the electronics, guess what - NO Sound. Did the usual checking all solders but suspect it may be a ground touching a live. If you've seen the wiring of the Gretsch, you'll understand it's a veritable minefield therein! Bit of a struggle each time to un-fit the wiring and re-fit (tubing and other tricks to help), but to no avail. Any ideas fellas?

[McCreed]

I have no input re: the wiring, especially without seeing anything, but curious what paint you used under the Tru Oil.

Tru Oil is very similar to polyurethane (actually contains x% of polyurethane) and can be problematic if applied over some paints.

Like the colour though!

[GreyFloyd]

Paint was acrylic enamel and it appears it has held up under the Tru Oil (fortunately) and wax. Stripped the electronics again today, insulated tape used on much of the braided wires just in case they were touching each other - well I know they are, you should try wiring this kit!! Plugged in and - nothing. Thought I'd try the switch in different positions just in case, and lo and behold I actually got what I believe to be both pickups sounding thru the amp in the neck position, so looks like a dud switch. Wondering whether anyone has tried a more expensive (therefore better??) switch from PitBull?

[McCreed]

Wondering whether anyone has tried a more expensive (therefore better??) switch from PitBull?

Personally I'd go with a Gibson/Epiphone-style switch like this:

3-way toggle example only

If you shop around you find them for a reasonable price, especially if you find a retailer with free postage.

[Simon Barden]

It can only be a signal wire touching a ground somewhere, or a bad connection/solder joint that's breaking under tension once it's installed. It may be just a single whisker of wire that's doing that.

Braided wire is good, but it does run the risk of flapping against a live connection and shorting it out if there's an excess of it. I always run it in heat shrink tubing if it is going anywhere near signal terminals.

As you get no sound in all three switch positions it either has to be a faulty switch (I really don't like those box switches as they can just fail completely for no apparent reason), or a signal connection on the master volume or master tone pot.

There is also a very small chance that the problem is with the output jack touching something grounded.

If you've got a multimeter, stick a guitar lead into the jack and measure the resistance on the other end after turning all the volume and tone pots up full. If you get 0 ohms, then you've got a short. If you've got an overload reading then you've got an open circuit, so that's either a broken wire, bad solder connection or a duff pot.

[GreyFloyd]

Thanks again Simon. The fact that the electrics sound in all 3 switch positions when the wiring is outside the body, suggests that it would probably be wires touching one another when installed inside. There is a lot of wiring probably in excess of what's required, but it's a difficult task getting it all installed cleanly. The bridge volume is close to the o/jack inside; there's a long length from switch to o/jack; there's crossovers aplenty so it'll most likely result in more taping. I'll remove the wiring tomo and have another look at all the connections (maybe do a re-solder just in case). will do the multimeter test too. Such a nice-looking model so I really want to get it fixed. Here's hoping.

[Simon Barden]

It's certainly going to help knowing whether you are looking for a short or open circuit.

[GreyFloyd]

Knowledge of a multi-meter is not my forte so not sure what I got. Reading starts at zero then rises showing several readings up to about 11 or 12 ohms. So don't know whether this means everything is tickety-boo or not. Anyway, removed all electrics from body, removed all wiring from pots, switch and jack, re-wired not using the braided, got full sound on all 3 switch positions and both pickups. Re-installed electrics into body, bridge pickup no longer working, removed electrics from body after ensuring bridge wiring pickup to pot was OK, then NO SOUND whatsoever. Packed up my iron and will re-visit when I'm in a better mood! When I first built the kit I had a working model; then after deciding the colour was no good decided to re-paint; that's when all my problems started. Should have remained 'butterscotch' after all. Oh woe is me.