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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Northumberland UK
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    124

    Scratch build 335 in a garden shed

    Over the last 2 weeks, while recovering from Covid 19 I have been planning and starting a scratch build 335.
    My other thread is the build of the ES-1GT and I have always loved the shape. The kit, however, falls a bit short on what I really want. Not in any way a negative comment on the kit - it really is first class and the fit and finish is better than I could reasonably expect.

    The shortfall is with regards to the detail construction and neck.

    As I understand it, the central solid timber of the body of the original was mahogany, the top and bottom were attached to the sides with mahogany kerfing and the neck was available as special order in laminated form (mahog, walnut, maple, walnut, mahog).

    This will be the basis of my build.
    The top is maple veneer with a mixture of quilting and spalting.

    I should start of by saying I have never built a guitar from scratch before so this should be interesting.

    So, progress so far....
    2 body blanks made from 18mm mdf drilled for dowels for securing the laminated sides
    various templates of the archback profile made
    Neck template made
    All required timbers bought mostly finished to thickness.

    Sides laminated from 0.6mm maple veneer (6 layers)
    Copious amounts of mahogany kerfing made
    Top and bottom cut from marine grade 3.6mm mahogany faced plywood.
    Maple veneer glued to the top. (first attempt was a failure but luckily I had 4 sheets so I can use the failed one as a practice top for fitting switches, knobs f holes etc. and for stains and sanding sealer).

    Centre timbers cut from mahogany and compound curved with a hand plane and sanding block
    End block for the timbers made (this is used at the rear of the body to take the neckstrap screw rather than screwing into endgrain).

    Next job is to glue the 2 timbers together and start fitting the sides. The sides are critical as where they fade into the neck it needs to be an almost invisible join.

    Question for you gurus out there .
    Should I cut the 'F' holes before or after I glue the top and bottom on? I am asking this as I wonder what will happen tension wise as the curvature involves a fair bit of clamping pressure and I do not want edges of the 'F' holes to pop up as the tension is released.

    Attaching a few pics...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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