I have a little bit of experience in fixing similar cracks in kits and this is how I have done mine with success. I only get my glue from Bunnings and seeing as they dont sell Titebond I use Selleys Aquadhere exterior glue as it is supposed to be stronger than wood and I have used it on about 6 guitar necks and have had no problem. I know you cant use steam to remove the neck but in the 20 years I have used it I have never had to remove a neck but if I had to I know how.
I have used a flat bladed screw driver and wedged it into the crack and opened it slightly to get more glue into the joint. I wouldnt water down this glue as it will reduce its strength and the glue has the right viscosity to allow it to flow into the crack. I normally use some tooth picks that I shape so they will fit a little bit further into the crack and allow me to push the glue into the crack.
The glue container has a nozzle that allows you to squeeze the glue into the crack as long as you hold the nozzle tight against the wood at right angles and move it slowly along and control the flow. I then use the tooth pick to force the glue into the crack and may even apply the glue numerous times to make sure it has entered the crack on both sides. I also use a squeegee or flat plastic strip to force more glue into the crack and I put some masking tape on the under side so the glue doesnt just go onto the floor or table top but that depends on how wide the crack is. I do both sides the same way to make sure the crack has plenty of glue in the crack.
I then remove the screw driver or wedge, what ever you use to hold the crack open, and then apply a sliding F clamp as it has soft plastic covers and clamp the parts together and use a damp cloth to remove any excess. I leave for about 24 hours or longer, depending on the weather, remove the clamp and it is fixed.
As for the screw holes I use a set of vernier calipers to measure the minor diameter of the screw but you can get a scrap piece of wood and drill holes until the screw slides into the hole and then go back a size or 2. I have a set of drills that have 0.5 millimetre increments and I always go to the next size above the minor diameter. As long as the hole is smaller than the outside diameter it will hold. Just dont over tighten, remember half a turn before it strips the hole out. An old Tradesman's joke.
Due to the gap being larger between the tuners due to the holes being further apart than necessary you could have used a washer under the head of the screws to hold the tuners in place. Always use a piece of tape or a permanent maker to set your depth as you dont want to drill through the head but always make sure you go deep enough so the screw end doesnt hit the bottom of the hole.
If you need to drill new holes for the screws just use either a toothpick or wooden skewer with a bit of glue to fill the holes and redrill the holes and they will be strong enough to hold the screws. Any oops is always fixable and you dont need special tools to accomplish a good outcome.
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