DTL-1 Ash body. First build

[Johnny Bravo]

Gosh, you've got a good eye and thanks for very clearly pointing out what to look for. I'll give those spots another sand.

Bravo, Simon - cheers

[Johnny Bravo]

Quick question - to my eye this nut looks wrong.

Can someone please point me to some instructions for this?

[dozymuppet]

If you're looking at the bottom of the E and E nut slots, rather than the top of the nut, it's probably all good.

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[Johnny Bravo]

If you're looking at the bottom of the E and E nut slots, rather than the top of the nut, it's probably all good.

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Cheers, Dozy - I think I see what you are saying.

As long as the bottom of the slots are right it's somewhat the aesthetics of the Low E side looking higher and if I didn't muck with the slot depth I could lightly file that higher side, just to make it look a little more uniform?

Kind regards

[McCreed]

As long as the bottom of the slots are right it's somewhat the aesthetics of the Low E side looking higher and if I didn't muck with the slot depth I could lightly file that higher side, just to make it look a little more uniform?

IMO a properly cut and profiled nut will not be even across the top. To me a nut that is the same height all the way across with string slots that get gradually deeper (from bass to treble E) looks aesthetically wrong!

Also FWIW, my gut feeling is the E & B string slots (at very least) are currently too shallow. You'll need to check the nut action to determine this for yourself.

There are differing opinions about how deep the slots should be from the top of the nut, and there are different reasons to support them. My approach is what I describe as a graduated depth from bass side to treble side. I set the low E so that about 75% of the string diameter is below the top of the nut, and then gradually deeper working across the A, D, G. However I cut the B & E string slots so they are at 100% below the top (even/flush). Make sense???

[Johnny Bravo]

Cheers, McCreed - that does make sense.

I agree re: the E and B - they do feel very shallow and I'm wondering if an enthusiastic note bend could cause problems.

I've heard that 2mm is a good height around the third fret (I know - the bridge height will have effect too) but does that seem like a reasonable starting point?

Regards

[McCreed]

Cheers, McCreed - that does make sense.

I agree re: the E and B - they do feel very shallow and I'm wondering if an enthusiastic note bend could cause problems.

I've heard that 2mm is a good height around the third fret (I know - the bridge height will have effect too) but does that seem like a reasonable starting point?

Regards

Actually, you want to depress each string (or capo) at the 3rd fret and measure the clearance under the string at the 1st fret with feeler gauges.

Like I mentioned previously, there are various approaches and clearance preferences as different as the player themselves.
Also different manufacturers will state different specs. That said, as general starting point, the bass E should be between .008" - .010" and the treble E between .004" - .006". Again with graduated heights in between across the nut.

I will reiterate that these figures (and any set up specs really) are dependant on playing style; tuning type used (low C?????); string gauge; playing technique etc.

My method is a bit of a compromise of the graduated one outlined above. I break it into 3 "steps" E/A @ .008" - D/G @ .006" - B/E @ .004". This is just what I do and what works for me. YMMV.


Edit to add:

I've heard that 2mm is a good height around the third fret...

FWIW, I just checked a couple of my strats and the unfretted string height above the 3rd fret is ≤ .75mm

[Johnny Bravo]

Actually, you want to depress each string (or capo) at the 3rd fret and measure the clearance under the string at the 1st fret with feeler gauges.

Like I mentioned previously, there are various approaches and clearance preferences as different as the player themselves.
Also different manufacturers will state different specs. That said, as general starting point, the bass E should be between .008" - .010" and the treble E between .004" - .006". Again with graduated heights in between across the nut.

I will reiterate that these figures (and any set up specs really) are dependant on playing style; tuning type used (low C?????); string gauge; playing technique etc.

My method is a bit of a compromise of the graduated one outlined above. I break it into 3 "steps" E/A @ .008" - D/G @ .006" - B/E @ .004". This is just what I do and what works for me. YMMV.


Edit to add:


FWIW, I just checked a couple of my strats and the unfretted string height above the 3rd fret is ≤ .75mm

Very grateful for the insights. Thanks very much.

[Johnny Bravo]

Hi all - really sorry for asking a question that I know has been dealt with time and time again, but I've been back through the forum threads and I'm still a little lost.

I have the maple neck and the maple fretboard and want to use an oil (with W&D sanding as appropriate)

I had decided to go down the path of Boiled Linseed Oil and had proposed to use that front and back. I'm using this video as my source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlkfUoWLH_o

But is Tru Oil better?

Also, if I do go down the path of BLO (and it's ok to do front and back), I'm comfortable with the approach in the video above but would I also do some light W&D sanding on the fretboard, too?

Finally, what's a "reasonable" number of coats - factoring in that drying time at the moment is pretty good/I am a numpty?

Thanks in anticipation, JB

[jonwhitear]

I haven't used BLO, so can't really comment on how it compares to TO. I'd say a reasonable number of coats is as many as you want to do - if you're just wanting to seal the wood, rather than aiming for a high gloss, you can probably get away with ~5.