Scratch body experiments

[Bakersdozen]

Is the bridge shimmed up enough to mimic the lowest height the bridge will sit at when you take into account the insert rim height and the thickness of the bottom flange on the posts?

I had that bridge on my GSJ-1 and although it was nice and low, the saddle height was far too low to get a good break angle over them. The string tension pulls the rear of the bridge up, angling the front of the bridge down. This meant that the string came off the rear of the bridge at roughly the same height as the notch in the saddle, especially with the furthest forward saddles. Not good for sound or sustain. There also some play in the screw threads of the post and bushing, so it tends to angle forwards slightly to start with. Small, but it all adds up.

I replaced the saddles with the taller ones from the kit bridge (not a brilliant fit but good enough) and also fitted lock-down (how appropriate at this point in time) studs to hold the bridge flat.

You may find that some lock-down studs will do enough, but please double-check what you currently have with the bridge tipped forwards between the two stud flanges, and then held flat, before being satisfied with the bridge and neck angle.

If you need to fit taller saddles or a different bridge, you may need more neck angle. Here’s the relevant post in my build diary. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post203149

Yep thanks Simon, been around the block with wraparounds a few times. Can't see from the photos but the bridge is sitting on cards to mimic the height of post rims and flanges etc. I already have locking post studs - I think I suggested them for your build at the time

[Simon Barden]

Great! Yes you did, and it was a good idea. Many thanks. My mate is still chuffed to bits with the guitar.

That string to body gap is going to determine the height of the dog-ear you need. I made a fibreboard shim to raise the one I had up a bit to get a good strong output.

[Bakersdozen]

Great! Yes you did, and it was a good idea. Many thanks. My mate is still chuffed to bits with the guitar.

That string to body gap is going to determine the height of the dog-ear you need. I made a fibreboard shim to raise the one I had up a bit to get a good strong output.

No probs! Glad your mate still loves it. Yes, I have a dogear here, but I fully anticipated some fernangling will be needed to get height right. I have some black 1ply coming for various projects so some of that will make a good shim if required

[Bakersdozen]

Finally got around the applying the name badges on these 2.

I'm also waiting on the sun to come out today to apply the clear coat on Double Cut.

[dozymuppet]

Looking good BD. Did you shape that volute on the tl neck, or did it come like that?

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[Bakersdozen]

Looking good BD. Did you shape that volute on the tl neck, or did it come like that?

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Yep, slightly re-shaped and sharpened it up a bit

[ross.pearson]

I'm fairly new to the forum and hadn't seen this thread yet. Great to see Tas Oak in a build! I just started my first ever build and used tas oak. 1m length of 200 x 50mm select grade that I had to square off and joint, so I've got a solid chunk of wood for the body. I know you're sandwiching yours with other wood, but what do you think about the weight of it?

[Bakersdozen]

The weight on these are perfectly acceptable. Nice and chunky without being too heavy.

[Bakersdozen]

Measuring, marking and layout fun tonight on the SC Junior.

[Simon Barden]

This is where a trapeze tailpiece held on by the strap button screw helps to run strings across the bridge to ensure perfect alignment. Or just string taped to the rear end of the guitar if you don't have a spare trapeze tailpiece.