Scratch body experiments

[Simon Barden]

Is the bridge shimmed up enough to mimic the lowest height the bridge will sit at when you take into account the insert rim height and the thickness of the bottom flange on the posts?

I had that bridge on my GSJ-1 and although it was nice and low, the saddle height was far too low to get a good break angle over them. The string tension pulls the rear of the bridge up, angling the front of the bridge down. This meant that the string came off the rear of the bridge at roughly the same height as the notch in the saddle, especially with the furthest forward saddles. Not good for sound or sustain. There also some play in the screw threads of the post and bushing, so it tends to angle forwards slightly to start with. Small, but it all adds up.

I replaced the saddles with the taller ones from the kit bridge (not a brilliant fit but good enough) and also fitted lock-down (how appropriate at this point in time) studs to hold the bridge flat.

You may find that some lock-down studs will do enough, but please double-check what you currently have with the bridge tipped forwards between the two stud flanges, and then held flat, before being satisfied with the bridge and neck angle.

If you need to fit taller saddles or a different bridge, you may need more neck angle. Here’s the relevant post in my build diary. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post203149

[Bakersdozen]

Is the bridge shimmed up enough to mimic the lowest height the bridge will sit at when you take into account the insert rim height and the thickness of the bottom flange on the posts?

I had that bridge on my GSJ-1 and although it was nice and low, the saddle height was far too low to get a good break angle over them. The string tension pulls the rear of the bridge up, angling the front of the bridge down. This meant that the string came off the rear of the bridge at roughly the same height as the notch in the saddle, especially with the furthest forward saddles. Not good for sound or sustain. There also some play in the screw threads of the post and bushing, so it tends to angle forwards slightly to start with. Small, but it all adds up.

I replaced the saddles with the taller ones from the kit bridge (not a brilliant fit but good enough) and also fitted lock-down (how appropriate at this point in time) studs to hold the bridge flat.

You may find that some lock-down studs will do enough, but please double-check what you currently have with the bridge tipped forwards between the two stud flanges, and then held flat, before being satisfied with the bridge and neck angle.

If you need to fit taller saddles or a different bridge, you may need more neck angle. Here’s the relevant post in my build diary. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post203149

Yep thanks Simon, been around the block with wraparounds a few times. Can't see from the photos but the bridge is sitting on cards to mimic the height of post rims and flanges etc. I already have locking post studs - I think I suggested them for your build at the time