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Thread: Haematoxylin Statocaster (ST-1)

  1. #1
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Haematoxylin Statocaster (ST-1)

    Hi folks!
    Putting together a farewell gift for a work colleague in the field of Histopathology with an interest in guitars and Blues.
    Stock standard ST-1 kit stained with Haematoxylin (Hx). Hx is a basic dye used to stain the acidic structures of tissue blue and is often simplistically said to stain the cellular nucleus. Hx is used in conjunction with a pink acidic counter stain Eosin to stain basic structures and provide contrast to the Hx. This is referred to as a H+E stain. Now, before anyone wants to tell me that Hx stains the nucleus 'purple', have a look at your slide after it has been 'blued' in alkaline solution before counterstaining with Eosin.

    For the stain nerds here, this is what Wikipedia has to say about Hx.
    "Haematoxylin or hematoxylin (/ˌhiːməˈtɒksɪlɪn/), also called natural black 1 or C.I. 75290, is a compound extracted from heartwood of the logwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum)[1][2] with a chemical formula of C16H14O6. This naturally derived dye has been used as a histologic stain, as an ink[3][4][5][6] and as a dye in the textile and leather industry.[7][8] As a dye, haematoxylin has been called palo de Campeche,[8] logwood extract,[7] bluewood[9] and blackwood.[9] In histology, haematoxylin staining is commonly followed by counterstaining with eosin.[1][10][11] When paired, this staining procedure is known as H&E staining and is one of the most commonly used combinations in histology.[1][7][12][13][14] In addition to its use in the H&E stain, haematoxylin is also a component of the Papanicolaou stain (or Pap stain) which is widely used in the study of cytology specimens.[1][14]"

    BTW, STATocaster is not a misspelling, it is a reference to urgency, 'STAT' which is relevant to our field of work.

  2. #2
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    I have googled to see what color this strat, I mean stat, will be. It seems that Central Americans used it for a number of colors. Guess I'll just have to stay tuned to see how this comes out ;-)

  3. #3
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Kit with bone nut upgrade has arrived. Nice little bit of grain. Let the sanding and fret leveling begin.
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    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Looks good!

  5. #5
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Frets levelled, sanded and polished in a personal record time of 2 hours. The frets feel really nice, do I really have to give it away?
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    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    While I am at it, let’s sand and stain the body. Looks like it’s going to be purple.
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    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Custom decal must of arrived while I was out today. I’m using wipe on poly so I need to coat the decal with acrylic spray first. Does anyone suggest I should do this before I apply the decal or after it is applied to the headstock?
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  8. #8
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkMark View Post
    The frets feel really nice, do I really have to give it away?
    I am sure Tim could be persuaded to send another kit ;-)

    That is a great purple! I always like seeing colors on F-style guitars that Fender doesn't use. Purple is a G&L color, but I haven't seen it on an actual Fender. Very cool!

  9. #9
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkMark View Post
    I’m using wipe on poly so I need to coat the decal with acrylic spray first. Does anyone suggest I should do this before I apply the decal or after it is applied to the headstock?
    It depends on how the decal was made and what sort of wipe on poly you are using. I make my decals with an ink jet printer and use a brush or wipe on water-based poly. If ink jet then definitely a few quick coats of acrylic clear first. Ink jet decals won't even survive the dunking let alone the poly.

    If laser-jet, then you should not need to acrylic for the dunking. You *may* not need it for the poly either. But if your poly is solvent or alcohol based all bets are off without a test.

    That said I don't think a few thin coats of acrylic over the decal will hurt, regardless of how it was printed, so when in doubt...

    FWIW, my approach is:

    1: Matte acrylic spray, 3 coats, over the decal, allow to dry overnight.
    2: Two coats of thin poly on the headstock. Wait 24 hours.
    3: Apply Decal, squeeze out all the water and wait for it to dry (about 8 hours)
    4: Apply enough coats of poly to be able to sand flat over the decal.

    Hope this helps!

  10. #10
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    I will follow your method, my acrylic is glossy but I can’t imagine that would make a difference.

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