Mend or mend not. There is no 'try'.
Mend or mend not. There is no 'try'.
You got this! Don't give up!
I am working on a different project involving a lot of wood glue (Something akin to a Palletcaster)
I was worried about my glue job holding up until one morning I spent a long time just watching YouTube videos of people proving that where you glue the wood is the strongest part.
Just a scary setback, my friend. Keep it up, this VI yearns to live.
I was sick all last week (brutal cold, not the other thing)... so I haven't gotten a chance to attempt the repair. Planning on doing it this week.
If Titebond is too hard to come by, does anyone have an opinion on Dikkybee007's suggestion of Selley's Aquadhere Exterior? I am seeing... mixed opinions on the internet (what a surprise).
It should be fine for that application. I wouldn’t use it on a neck joint myself, but I can easily order Titebond from Amazon and it arrives the next day.
Update: I was seeing what I could do to wedge the crack open enough to get the glue in, and it straight up broke off. I guess it'll be pretty easy to get the glue in the right place
When it rains, it pours.
Hopefully it won't be hard to line it up exactly once the glue is in place.
It will glue back on just fine.
With something like that I would make up a caul to help clamp it. Sounds ominous: its not.
Get a piece of scrap wood and cut a v shaped notch in it as close to the angle of the loose piece as you can. Draw round it to mark the cut. Then pad generously before clamping. The more padding the less accurate the cut needs to be! I find bits of old wetsuit are ideal, but anything softish will do. Cork floor tile works. So does layers of rag at a pinch. Put a bit of brown parcel tape on the thing so that it doesn't end up glued to the work.
Most of us have made bigger ballsups than this one! Looking at the break there won't be mega loads on the join, so don't worry too much, any half decent wood glue will be fine. And heck, if the worst comes to the worst and it really doesn't look good enough to you then why not a painted headstock face? On the back the tuners will hide it anyway.
Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
Build #7, Mini Midi Bass
Update (I ended up finding a place that sold Titebond):
Yeah, for sure. I have enough purple to do a matching headstock. I would just have to sand off the decal and do a new one in a lighter colour...Originally Posted by JimC
It doesn't work for standard decal paper. Light colours depend on their being a light background (preferably white) to preserve the look of the colour. Stick a light colour decal on a dark background and the decal colour also goes a lot darker.
To do light colour decals, you need a laser printer that has white toner and can print pure white if necessary (the same type of printer can be used to print gold and silver logos with the right toner). Unfortunately you won't find a consumer lever printer that can do this, so you have to go for printshop-level printers, and they aren't cheap.
You can print on white decal paper, but that requires cutting round all the shapes. Doable with a simple outline, but writing is very difficult and you'd have to apply each letter separately.
You can of course find printshops, some larger luthier suppliers and some eBay sellers who will print out the decal for you.
This is where vinyl lettering has its benefits (at least for single colours) as a domestic vinyl cutting machine is reasonably affordable. But you are pretty much stuck with single colours and the colours of the thin vinyl sheets available.
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