Build #2 - PSH-1 (Redux)

[mrpearson]

Forgot to mention - your binding colour question. I have the opposite problem as my pickup mounts are white. When I layered my truoil the binding took on the amber colour which looks more cream now vs white.

I have been tru oiling my pickup mounts as I go so the colour matches the binding.

Simon’s tip around 3m tape is the best way to get a clean line but I found I still need to scrape and sand the binding to get a clean line. I found that it was easier to mask the stained body and then sand the binding to get a clean line vs trying to get a clean line when first staining. This is the weakest part of my build so listen to gurus like Simon and Mccreed


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[McCreed]

@ mrpearson - YIKES! Good point! I hadn't thought about the HB cavity, as mine is a solid body. That's just embarrassing .

dbeltrami, definitely check and see if there is enough wood there first!
The PRS hollowbodies have the scallop, but they are designed with it. Cheap MIC kits, probably not so much. Sorry for any misleading information!

@McCreed: Did you have to re-glue the binding afterwards? and how did you finish?
I can imagine just sanding the new connection smooth and applying your clear finish?

From memory (FWTW) the binding didn't come loose at all. Even that wee tiny bit by the pocket stayed in place.
Once I got the contour shaped and smoothed, I just stained it and applied Tru Oil (that's what the original finish is).
Luckily I had some stain leftover from the original build, so didn't need to mix a new batch and try to match it. The recipe was a combination of Angelus leather dyes. I had written down the ratios, but I'll be stuffed if I could find it!

[mrpearson]

@ mrpearson - YIKES! Good point! I hadn't thought about the HB cavity, as mine is a solid body. That's just embarrassing .

dbeltrami, definitely check and see if there is enough wood there first!
The PRS hollowbodies have the scallop, but they are designed with it. Cheap MIC kits, probably not so much. Sorry for any misleading information!



From memory (FWTW) the binding didn't come loose at all. Even that wee tiny bit by the pocket stayed in place.
Once I got the contour shaped and smoothed, I just stained it and applied Tru Oil (that's what the original finish is).
Luckily I had some stain leftover from the original build, so didn't need to mix a new batch and try to match it. The recipe was a combination of Angelus leather dyes. I had written down the ratios, but I'll be stuffed if I could find it!

;-) I just double checked this morning. Sorry to say but there is no wood up there to carve.


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[RocknRolf]

Luckily I had some stain leftover from the original build, so didn't need to mix a new batch and try to match it. The recipe was a combination of Angelus leather dyes. I had written down the ratios, but I'll be stuffed if I could find it!

I remember reading it back then. Good to hear your binding stayed in place.
Thanks!

[dbeltrami]

My Wilkinson bridge has arrived. It is a much nicer looking bridge than the stock kit bridge and has a lower profile.

I have clamped the neck to the body, slotted in the bridge and a couple of machine heads to check neck/bridge alignment and action height.

The good news is that the alignment and scale length look to be spot on . The pick routs are slightly off centre but there is room in there to position the pickups properly.

I think my neck pocket will need a shim, however. Going by @mrpearson and @vivek_rc's experience and from I can see with some nylon line it looks high. Would appreciate any feedback if these pictures give you enough to comment on.

[dbeltrami]

Just a quick update - I checked the neck angle again. This time I usied two clamps as I had a suspicion that the single clamp may have altered the angle as there was no pressure from a clamp over the bottom end of the fretboard.

It's looking pretty good, the nylon is pretty much touching the frets with the fretboard perflectly flat. I think this kit is in good shape.

[dbeltrami]

And... I'm on my way.

The first job I decided to do was to level, crown and polish the frets. This is a tedious job and I wanted to get it out of the way. I would have to say, having done this 4-5 times now, I think this is defintely my best result. I am sure I can get better, obviously, but I am very happy with the frets.

The fretboard itself is quite nice looking with a bit of character in the wood. I am not sure what it is made from (the PSH-1 kit description says it is rosewood) but I quite like the look. After the final polish of the frets I took to it with some lemon oil - and did it soak that up! It now has a much darker, deeper colour and looks a whole lot less thirsty.

The first picture is the neck straight out of the box. The next two pictures are after the fret dressing and fingerboard quenching.



I have turned my attention to the front of the body and checking the veneer more closely. I think I have only one small glue spot, so hopefully I can attend to that. It will be covered by black in my planned burst so it may not be too big an issue.

The more intersting observation looks to be some machine marks, or "cuts" may be the best way I can describe them, in the lower part of the body. I gave it a very light sand with some 400 grit sandpaper but it didn't seem to do much in terms of removal. By finger feel I cannot notice anything, it is very smooth. But they are too straight to be natural.

I've saturated the colours in the photo to make it stand out. It's not overly noticeable by the naked eye but I'm a touch concerned as to how it will show when stain is applied.



Any ideas?

[Simon Barden]

You could give it a go with steam - a soldering iron and a damp rag. It may not fix it 100% but it may make the scratches less deep

After that, I think all you can do is sand, as those marks are likely to show up when staining. I'd use P240, as the sanding scratches are quite coarse. Remember to sand with the grain, and not the direction of the flame pattern.

[McCreed]

I'd say your assessment of machine is correct, and they look like roller marks from the veneer processing or possibly eve the application to the body.
Good all-around advice from Simon, and P240 is probably going to be more effective.

[dbeltrami]

Folks,

This is my first set neck guitar build and I am starting to get paranoid! After re-reading build diaries from @vivek_rc and @mrpearson and their similar experiences with neck break angles and shims I am doubting whether I have assessed my situation correctly.

After my first attempt at checking the action, I was convinced I had the same problem. But when I dismantled the clamp, which I had positioned over the tenon only, I realsed that the top of heel had raised off the neck pocket. So I re-seated the neck used two clamps and world was looking good again.

But then paranoia set in and I started questioning whether the bridge was sitting too low becuase the bushings were not in; or whether the neck heel had a problem; or the pocket was too deep; the list of uneducated ideas goes on.

I think I am ok after testing this a few times but I wanted to ask a question. Would it hurt to put in a 1mm or 2mm shim to make double sure? I can always raise the bridge, but I can't lower any lower than the body.

Here's a photo of how low the neck sits in the pocket when it is properly seated down. This just looks too low to me, albeit the curve on this particular top is quite pronounced.