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Thread: 40's style Gibson 400 Black rear headstock/neck pinstripe, with Dingotone

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  1. #1
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Hi Teeaky, as mentioned previously the factory would be breaching copyright to make exact replicas of these famous brand of guitars. Hence we expect that there will be differences as our models are only based on these famous models.

  2. #2
    Member Tweaky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin1393 View Post
    Hi Teeaky, as mentioned previously the factory would be breaching copyright to make exact replicas of these famous brand of guitars. Hence we expect that there will be differences as our models are only based on these famous models.
    Just a suggestion.
    It seems you can "Partially" get away with copying certain design elements, without breach of copyright, it seems the Headstock being the problem.
    Since headstock templates are available online to be easily downloaded to replicate the END of the headstock [which are the copyrighted portions], the need to choose between the end of headstock [copyright] and headstock to nut tapering/shaping has, IMHO, been skewered the wrong way.
    My ES-1 Kit neck has the classic [copyrighted] Gibson end of neck Tulip shape, but differs at the neck joint....as a guitar builder, which is more important?, the neck/body joint, or legal troubles because of headstock copying?....fix the neck joint, leave the headstock flat so purchasers can sort it themselves......[neck joint problem with my kit]...I'll post photos.

    The ES-3 has a flat headstock end [so design away], but the taper of the neck differers considerably from the headstock to the nut.
    I don't think that has been copyrighted, as it's a matter of structural integrity of the neck [I know, Gibson and Neck headstock structural integrity shouldn't be used in the same sentence ]
    The ES-3 Kit has one particular bigger problem than that though [actually several-needs a construction rethink as a kit] .....I'll take some photos and show you....it is particularly bad, and quite frankly, I'm surprised it's sent out as is for people to build.
    [It's where the body meets the neck at the LOW E side, there is a gap of about 1/1.5mm ]
    I used some lateral thinking, and have thought about doing some slight Internal modifications, and glue a small block of wood under the guitars top, so it can be clamped against the fixed neck, when it comes time to do so, thereby closing that space....there is plenty of space to fit a small clamp inside the body that would do the job

  3. #3
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tweaky View Post
    The ES-3 Kit has one particular bigger problem than that though [actually several-needs a construction rethink as a kit] .....I'll take some photos and show you....it is particularly bad, and quite frankly, I'm surprised it's sent out as is for people to build.
    [It's where the body meets the neck at the LOW E side, there is a gap of about 1/1.5mm ]
    I used some lateral thinking, and have thought about doing some slight Internal modifications, and glue a small block of wood under the guitars top, so it can be clamped against the fixed neck, when it comes time to do so, thereby closing that space....there is plenty of space to fit a small clamp inside the body that would do the job
    Tweaky, I'm really not sure how much experience you have with building guitars - particularly those that come in kit form. (I'm not referring to the forum user who puts the guitar together but the manufacturer who provides it).
    But for your benefit and perhaps those who perhaps are less aware of the manufacturing process there are some things that need to be taken into account and investigated before suggesting a kit has a problem with its design.

    There is the key issue of humidity to consider. With a hollow body this is even more important since wood continues to 'breathe' and adjust to the humidity of the geographical area that it finds itself in. For this reason serious builders of guitars will always try and control the humidity around them at between 40 - 50%. This is essential when gluing up a guitar too as if the humidity causes the wood to expand too much the glued up joints will weaken and tear apart. You will often see this on an acoustic guitar where the soundboard has 'split' right down the middle line. An acoustic guitar/ hollow body built in Mt Tamborine in Queensland will 'bulge' when it arrives in Perth Western Australia unless the builder is extremely careful with the build process and controls the humidity while building.
    So, when building a guitar for a different climates there has to be wider tolerances, especially when unprotected (unpainted) wood is being shipped all over the world. Since we know the wood can be affected by the humidity and typically swell or shrink slightly, you will find that by design there is a small gap between the neck pocket and the guitar neck when you dry fit.
    I am currently in the final stages of building the ES-3 and the gap you refer to was there initially on my guitar, however, I know that this is not a problem because I'm painting the guitar and I will be gluing in the neck with Hide Glue. This is the next point, once the guitar is painted, the thickness of the applied coats combined with the Hide Glue will usually completely cover up that gap. Of course when I do apply my glue to fit the neck to the body I will make sure the humidity is right otherwise I can expect cracks to appear unless I fluked the right humidity when I glued up.
    Last edited by Gavin1393; 02-10-2015 at 06:37 PM.

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