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Thread: Es12gq

  1. #1
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    Es12gq

    Hi all,
    Wondering if any members have built the ES12GQ, I am interested in the type of finish used. Have had conflicting advice on stains and different finish types. Any advice or hints / tips would be appreciated very much. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Hi OEG69. I have not built an ES (or now FH!) kit with quilted veneer.
    But I have done some (2!!) veneer builds with stains. Check out:
    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post228735.

    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=12509&p=228049&viewfull=1#post228 049.

    These were finished with Feast Watson stains, then coated with brushed on Tru-oil, then sprayed with poly.

    There are lots of different methods that will work. It may be easier to ask about a specific method.

    Veneer hints: No sanding (or very light sanding) of the veneer. Find the glue marks on the veneer. Removing glue marks on the veneer is tricky due to the no sanding rule.

    The bursts on my builds were good at hiding a few glue marks!

    Looking at some build diaries - some veneers are excellent, others require a lot of work! Always have a solid colour as a back-up plan!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic), DMS-1 (Mustang).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  3. #3
    Member
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    Hi Trevor,

    Thank you for your reply. Given everything that I have read thus far, I am starting to think that I might go natural with this. A couple of dust coats of shellac then nitro over the top. Still deciding. Everything I have read says to stay away from any type of aniline dye that is water based. Its a learning curve but not one I am wanting to stuff up given how thin a veneer is, and this is a special order that Tim was kind enough to source for me.

  4. #4
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Both of my ES style basses ended up with solid colored tops, but I decided to do the back and sides natural. Not unhappy with the way it turned out:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    On most of these the back and sides use a basswood veneer which is a bit thicker than the top, and a bit more robust. It is possible to sand through (as I proved with my other ES build which has solid colors on the back and sides as well), but the veneers are a bit thicker and will take a bit of gentle sanding.

    Tru Oil would be a bit darker (I used a water based poly) but this gives you an idea.

    The maple figured tops are SUPER easy to sand through. The top of this one was always going to be solid since I needed to cover some holes that I made in the top to get the bridge right. Even if it did not have that destiny, I am sure I'd have sanded through...

    That said some folks have pulled it off. In addition to TD's there is at least one 12 string in the galleries:

    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=11635

    I also think Gavin Turner got great results, and he also has pretty complete build diaries if you want to check out his technique...

    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=2663

    His ESB-4 was the inspiration for me to make an attempt at that bass:

    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=2937

    Scroll down a bit on that same page and you'll see JimC's, which was done front, back and neck in natural Tru Oil.

    Good luck and sand lightly ;-)

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