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  1. #1
    Well, after much to-ing and fro-ing, and quite possibly far too much measurement, I've routed the neck socket.



    I understand that the neck is supposed to be about 3mm higher than the body (that is the fretboard plus 3mm of the neck itself) - and I seem to have routed a trench 1mm too deep.

    I have a back-up though - i'm going to use a "thicknesser" to take 3mm off the body and put a board on the top and then machine it down so that the board is 1 to 2 mm thick and the body is 1mm thinner than it is now.
    I originally thought to do this so I'd not have to find a long enough drill bit to drill the channel between the control plate trench and the pickup rout (I can simply rout a connection and then put the top on it - makes it easier to put the shielding in too).

  2. #2
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EsquireEsque View Post
    ...I understand that the neck is supposed to be about 3mm higher than the body (that is the fretboard plus 3mm of the neck itself) - and I seem to have routed a trench 1mm too deep...
    That seems like a lot of trouble to go to for 1-2 mm.

    #1: Before fixing the problem it would be prudent to established that it is a problem ;-) To wit: I would suggest dry fitting the neck in the pocket, putting bridge in place, and seeing if you can get it into proper adjustment. If you can, declare victory ;-)

    #2: If you can't adjust the saddles down far enough, either shim the neck, or sand off one or two mm from the bottom of the blank--or run your thicknesser on the blank to take off an 1-2 mm. Wouldn't that be simpler than than taking off 3 mm and laminating a 1-2 mm top onto it?

    I would only put a whole new top on if you want it for aesthetic reasons. Push comes to shove, it's much easier to get a good solid glue up when you are gluing a piece into the neck pocket than it is to laminate a piece onto the entire top.

    I don't think screws are an issue. If the screws are just one or two mm too long, you can simply take a mm or two off the point of the screw. The point doesn't need to be sharp ;-)

  3. #3
    .... actually - I've found that the paper plans that I was using as a guide (pasted onto the body blank) had lifted - and the neck is actually exactly 3mm above the body.

    I've mostly taken the paper off the body and noted where things will probably go.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So now I reassess whether to use a top (and the additional shielding and chambering) given that this is my first try.....

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