Thanks for that video!Originally Posted by fender3x
I chose the poplar wood because it was the lightest color wood they offered. I thought it would be the best to take up the paint. It burned great and my colors stayed pretty true- so a double win for the poplar from me. My process for colorizing my wood burning uses acrylic paint thinned down with glazing medium to the point that it's translucent like a stain and semi-absorbs into the wood, but the glazing medium keeps it from bleeding like a proper stain would. It's kind of a faux-stain. You can even see the woodgrain through it. Most of the details are actually colored pencil underneath the paint. I didn't show you guys the colored pencil stage bc it's pretty ugly!
Because my paint isn't really paint, and it's not really stain, it's pretty flexible in it's applications. So I could paint that stripe to look like raw mahogany, and the woodgrain would show through like a stain, but not bleed all over the place. But would that look the best?
I drove out to the specialty wood store, and was sold a pint of Aqua Coat clear wood grain filler. It's supposed to be water based and low odor, ready to use straight out of the can. I went there to buy the timbermate wood filler in mahogany, and the sales guy talked me into this instead. It has a few mixed reviews online. Anyone use it before? Love it, hate it? Tips or tricks? I'm going to test it on some scrap wood tonight.
The sales guy also suggested that I oil the fretboard before grain filling the neck. This way, I could also oil the neck, to prevent any over-staining from the fretboard oiling. I was planning to just use MusicNomad's F-one fretboard oil which is supposed to *not* be lemon oil, linseed oil or waxy. If the neck is properly sealed with poly, the oil shouldn't discolor the neck, right? Or should I oil it first, like he suggested?
The internet tells me one thing, the woodworking sales guy tells me something else, but I know I can actually trust what you guys say.
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