Astracaster First Build FS-1

[fender3x]

Yes I had ordered a bone nut. I will change it out if deepening the slots doesn't work.

I'd do it even if deepening the slots will work. The bone nut's better, so why not ;-)

At first I thought after they get back to me with reasonable solution ( Atleast a 16 Aud refund for the missing file) to the problem, I shall ship one of those guitar Body and neck back to them.

It would not even have occurred to me to return the defective kit unless asked to do so. Your idea seems like a very measured response.

[Drashkum]

Got a few more parts for the build the second guitar Build which i am building for me. One of my friends who traveled to America hand brought me these back to India. It is hard to get these in india at USA price and When these land in india these are usually double the price. So was very fortunate to source these for the build

1. Guitar fetish Locking Tuners Staggered 6 inline ( E66) for 37USD is a steal. I have used it in my first build which was a Strat. They are absolutely value for money.


https://www.guitarfetish.com/Fits-St...ck-_p_514.html

2. Seymour Duncan Triple shot Pickup rings. These are for coil splits from humbucker rings. Since I am going to use a piezo bridge and Artec MB1 buffer amp and the Pots that came with it, I didnt want push and pull pots. So this was a alternative.



Yet to buy for 2nd build
1. Pickup selector switch
2. TOM tailpiece

I am planning to do the first FS-1 with the electronics and hardware that came with the kit and the second FS-1 is with these upgraded hardwares and electronics

Should i start 2 separate threads for each build?

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[fender3x]

I didn't know about those rings. What I cool idea. I think you get to decide whether to do one thread or two ;-)

[Drashkum]

Finally got time for whacko therapy on the guitar neck and trial with side shim. This seems to align the neck in a better way.
I used small wooden shims done out of broken wooden spoon and forks. I tried to stick 2 of these which caused extreme shift of high E first. Then I removed one and that seems to align the neck well..

Here are a few pics and a video






https://youtube.com/shorts/AmiO6ClgtuQ?feature=share

I hope the alignment is ok.

Can use these wooden spoons as shims on the sides. Or should I get a tapered shim that are available in stewmac or ebay and try with those? How to go about it?

Secondly when ever I try to allign the neck with side shims after stringing the guitar for Plumbline. It pulls up the neck towards the bridge by 2mm, so Scale Length becomes 626 from 628mm. So do I have to glue the neck with shim and clamp it and then try the Plumbline?

Please let me know your tboughts

Drashkum

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[fender3x]

I am guessing it only pushes the treble side toward the bridge. You may want to measure on the bass side...my guess is that it will be a bit longer than 628. If so, that may be fine. As long as you can get the bridge saddles to adjust sufficiently to intonate it should be fine. One some guitars you actually see the bridge set a little farther back on the bass side than on the treble side for easier intonation. All that said, you should be able to set the neck an mm or two in or out without too much problem if you must.

I would fill any gaps with veneer because it's easy to build up to whatever thickness you like about 1/2 mm per layer. You can make a wedge out of veneer by cutting strips; more strips at the thick end of the wedge, less at the narrow end. If you wanted to add a bit of to push the neck back, two to three strips at the pickup end of the neck pocket would put it in just about exactly the right place.

[Drashkum]

I am guessing it only pushes the treble side toward the bridge. You may want to measure on the bass side...my guess is that it will be a bit longer than 628. If so, that may be fine. As long as you can get the bridge saddles to adjust sufficiently to intonate it should be fine. One some guitars you actually see the bridge set a little farther back on the bass side than on the treble side for easier intonation. All that said, you should be able to set the neck an mm or two in or out without too much problem if you must.

I would fill any gaps with veneer because it's easy to build up to whatever thickness you like about 1/2 mm per layer. You can make a wedge out of veneer by cutting strips; more strips at the thick end of the wedge, less at the narrow end. If you wanted to add a bit of to push the neck back, two to three strips at the pickup end of the neck pocket would put it in just about exactly the right place.

Yes it pushed the treble side only. The bridge is already angled by 3 degrees I think. So the saddles on Bass side measures around 632 to compensate thickness of the bass strings.


What do you use to fill? Veneer rolls? Do u have a pic? Can you share a pic?

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[fender3x]

Rolls would work, but are probably overkill. In my case I bought a small sheet of the cheapest light colored veneer I could find on eBay, which happened to be anigre wood. I still have most of it. I've used it to fill gaps, make wedge shaped and flat shims...and most recently to fill the the fret slots after turning a fretted bass into a fretless.




I got a piece that was about 1x2 feet that is turning out to be a lifetime supply ;-)

Cut it to size (slightly large) with scissors, glue in, and sand off any excess.

Thank Simon for the idea...he turned me on to it.

You can get something that matches your guitar wood too. Or you can get sampler packs with a variety of woods. I use it in places that don't show so it doesn't matter much, but anigre turns out to look a lot like maple, and takes glue well, so it might work for you, and it's quite cheap (which always appeals to me).

[nitroburner1000]

Wow, youve been through the ropes mate. But most of the kits need adjustments, thats just the way things are these days, and fixing them adds to your guitar skills.
So to your question about 2 kits and 2 separarte build diaries, yes that is a must, to avoid confusion. With your glue problems use water, although it can fur up the vaneer, or better still alcohol or thinners to see where the glue marks are first. TAKE YOUR TIME on every aspect of the build, there is no rush, and if you make a mistake and believe me you will, there is always someone here thats been there before and can help you.
Take one step at a time and dont try and do everything at once.
With the staining you can thin out the stain and build up subsequent coats, water based stains are better to work with as they dont dry as fast and you can correct your light or dark patches.
DONT use a furry rag or cloth, use something that wont catch on the grain. you can apply the stain with a brush or rag then gently wipe off with a clean cloth to get the effect you want. You can build up as many coats as you want until you get the desired effect..
It will dry lighter but go darked when applying the finishing coats to seal it.
You can use rattle cans, a brush or spraygun, depends on what you are happiest with. ALWAYS TEST THE CLEAR ON A PIECE OF PREPARED STAINED WOOD FIRST IN CASE YOU GET A REACTION. Then build up mist or thin coats instead of 2 or 3 heavy coats.
I use rattle cans with a handle and apply at least 30-50 coats. I know, over the top but thats just me. If you leave coats for longer than a day or so, finely sand between coats or it may laminate.
Most of the guys on here can add to this but this is just painting 101. All the best with your build..

[Drashkum]

Wow, youve been through the ropes mate. But most of the kits need adjustments, thats just the way things are these days, and fixing them adds to your guitar skills.
So to your question about 2 kits and 2 separarte build diaries, yes that is a must, to avoid confusion. With your glue problems use water, although it can fur up the vaneer, or better still alcohol or thinners to see where the glue marks are first. TAKE YOUR TIME on every aspect of the build, there is no rush, and if you make a mistake and believe me you will, there is always someone here thats been there before and can help you.
Take one step at a time and dont try and do everything at once.
With the staining you can thin out the stain and build up subsequent coats, water based stains are better to work with as they dont dry as fast and you can correct your light or dark patches.
DONT use a furry rag or cloth, use something that wont catch on the grain. you can apply the stain with a brush or rag then gently wipe off with a clean cloth to get the effect you want. You can build up as many coats as you want until you get the desired effect..
It will dry lighter but go darked when applying the finishing coats to seal it.
You can use rattle cans, a brush or spraygun, depends on what you are happiest with. ALWAYS TEST THE CLEAR ON A PIECE OF PREPARED STAINED WOOD FIRST IN CASE YOU GET A REACTION. Then build up mist or thin coats instead of 2 or 3 heavy coats.
I use rattle cans with a handle and apply at least 30-50 coats. I know, over the top but thats just me. If you leave coats for longer than a day or so, finely sand between coats or it may laminate.
Most of the guys on here can add to this but this is just painting 101. All the best with your build..

Rolls would work, but are probably overkill. In my case I bought a small sheet of the cheapest light colored veneer I could find on eBay, which happened to be anigre wood. I still have most of it. I've used it to fill gaps, make wedge shaped and flat shims...and most recently to fill the the fret slots after turning a fretted bass into a fretless.




I got a piece that was about 1x2 feet that is turning out to be a lifetime supply ;-)

Cut it to size (slightly large) with scissors, glue in, and sand off any excess.

Thank Simon for the idea...he turned me on to it.

You can get something that matches your guitar wood too. Or you can get sampler packs with a variety of woods. I use it in places that don't show so it doesn't matter much, but anigre turns out to look a lot like maple, and takes glue well, so it might work for you, and it's quite cheap (which always appeals to me).

https://youtu.be/k-8P-P4JtzQ

One of my friend who owns a timber business gave me this catalogue of mini veneer sheets which he doesn't use anymore. It containers small paper thin veneer sheets of various woods totally 144 in number. Some are dyed and some are natural. These veneer sheets are 0.68mm thick and are 13 cm x 10 cm size. Do u think I can use this and fill up the gap. The wood I used previously from spoon was 1.64 mm. So i may need 3 of these strips to be glued.

How to go about it? Can you brief me a step by step guide or can you refer me to a video please? How do u make a wedge out of them?

Thank you
Drashkum



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[Bakersdozen]

https://youtu.be/k-8P-P4JtzQ

One of my friend who owns a timber business gave me this catalogue of mini veneer sheets which he doesn't use anymore. It containers small paper thin veneer sheets of various woods totally 144 in number. Some are dyed and some are natural. These veneer sheets are 0.68mm thick and are 13 cm x 10 cm size. Do u think I can use this and fill up the gap. The wood I used previously from spoon was 1.64 mm. So i may need 3 of these strips to be glued.

How to go about it? Can you brief me a step by step guide or can you refer me to a video please? How do u make a wedge out of them?

Thank you
Drashkum



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That would work fine. Measure the total length of the wedge you wish to make and cut one piece to that length. Then cut another 2/3 of that size and the final 1/3 of that size. Then you basically arrange them and glue together so it looks like steps. Lay them all together so they line up and one end and you will get a gradual wedge shape.

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