I have not done this, or seen it done on a semi-hollow body. I'm not sure if it would be best to route a cavity along the main block (further down from the post holes) or just open the back of the cavity!Originally Posted by Drashkum
I'm not sure how thick the back is and if it will hold screws to take a cavity cover? But that could be worked around.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
This build has some semi-hollow battery box and rear control cavity explorations.
Scott.
Thank you. Should i email Adam asking how the cavity is routed for the hollowbody and if he has any picture of the prototype like this
This was a solid body guitar modified to become a hollow body so There was a Lot of wood available for battery box or cavity control. I dont think it would be the same for this hollowbody
Can you see inside the cavity using a torch through the f-holes?
I would assume it is like the picture shown above (and I think the ES1 kit in the build diary referred to by WierdBits would be similar).
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Thank you. I’ll do that when the body reaches me this week. It’s on the transit. Can’t wait to get my hands on it
The ziltoid build has given me a lot of confidence to route a cavity for the battery. It’s a pity that there is no update for a long time on it.
I may also have to think about creating a back panel. My main reservations are after how to I screw back the back panel when the whole body is hollow. Is there a way to create a bevelled edges where the cavity plate can sit and can be screwed down?
I have been trying g to sand and stain a few pieces of scrap wood that I got with dyes I was able to Source locally. This was the result I got
Will try to mix stains and try further to zeroing on the colour. I haven't tried a base stain sanding and further staining it. Will have to try that too
Last edited by Drashkum; 18-03-2023 at 10:35 PM.
"I may also have to think about creating a back panel. My main reservations are after how to I screw back the back panel when the whole body is hollow. Is there a way to create a bevelled edges where the cavity plate can sit and can be screwed down?"
I see on VH2580's build (https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post132895) that he glued some supports on the inside of the created hole to take the screws. I do not think the back is deep enough to bevel or route a recess! Alternatively - does the cavity cover need to sit flush with the back? Could it just sit on top of the wood? The tremolo cover on the back of Strats is not recessed.
Also, the stains look good. I really like the yellow and red! Just be aware that stains will/can look different on different types of wood, and that the final coats can also affect the colour of the stain.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Thats a good idea. If the cavity cover need not sit flush then I could definitely screw it on the wood at the back.
Just curious has anyone stained their guitar with fountain pen inks. Here there are wide verity of Diamine inks that are available in various bright colours too. If they work I could give it a try too. Anyone knows their pros and cons? Do they fade over time?
"Just curious has anyone stained their guitar with fountain pen inks. Here there are wide verity of Diamine inks that are available in various bright colours too. If they work I could give it a try too. Anyone knows their pros and cons? Do they fade over time?"
I have used Red alcohol ink on the AG-2 build and have been very happy with the result. Also used Blue alcohol ink on the SSCM-1 - but had some problems getting a uniform colour using a cloth application (for some reason the ink went sticky). Not really sure of pros or cons. But they do not seem to fade!
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Wow. Thats cool. This opens up My options. We have Diamine fountain pen inks here and also pilot irusizhuku inks in brilliant colours. Ill try getting a couple of colours and stain the scrap wood and see if it works
Finally my kit has arrived at my country waiting for customs clearance. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Anyone knows the size of the Tune-o-matic posts/ studs that comes with the kit?. The piezo TOM bridge, I am ordering comes with post of 11mm. So if I know the diameter of the holes in the kit I can see if I need to enlarge the hole..
@trevor Davies, Thanking you for. Patiently answering all my queries. Since I am a first time builder I have all these queries. I may require your and all the other forum Members support to complete the guitar build. Thanks once again
Drashkum
If you use a battery box, I think they generally come with a lip so they can mount without being recessed. That's how mine was, in any case.
I like the green and the yellow. Red is cool, but I had to do a lot of experiments before I got it to look good. I am no expert, however.
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