I'm planning on a clear finish. Probably a flat top, with binding. I've gone with CA with matched sawdust, as there was a fair bit of alder showing through the knot holes.
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I'm planning on a clear finish. Probably a flat top, with binding. I've gone with CA with matched sawdust, as there was a fair bit of alder showing through the knot holes.
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Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
It begins. Not sure whether I'll go with the 27 or the 28.5. Sourcing a truss rod might determine the winner.
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Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
Have you thought about setting the neck further into the body so it doesn't have to be so long? Makes it easier to get away with a 460mm truss rod. At the moment you are making more of a 'conversion' neck that fits onto a standard body.
A couple of graphite stiffening rods may also help at the heel end with a slightly short truss rod.
Possibly. I'm in figuring-it-out-as-I-go mode at the moment. Haven't really found a good definitive reference yet either.
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Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
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on my baritone scratchie build I had to take a double adjustment bass rod, cut it down and re weld it to achieve what I needed length wise.Originally Posted by dozymuppet
It begins. Not sure whether I'll go with the 27 or the 28.5. Sourcing a truss rod might determine the winner.
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FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
A reference for what?
The body end of the truss rod would normally end roughly where the neck joins the body. So that's in the curved neck heel area on a set neck, and for a bolt on it's mainly within the thicker squarer area before it rounds down to the general neck profile shape.
A reference for building baritone necks. I know it's basically "extending things", but my initial cursory internet search hasn't turned up much about truss rods (i haven't looked that hard).
I've also only looked at the obvious places for truss rods. stewmac has a "kit" which includes a 24" rod which can be cut and threaded. That sounds promising. I'd rather do that than welding anything.
Carving a longer heel so the neck length to relieve is shorter is not a bad idea either. It would reduce the reach, but I don't spend a lot of time beyond the 15th fret anyway.
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Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
Following with keen interest!
It is a traditional truss rod, so single action. You'll just have to be careful that you don't start with any back-bow in the neck.
Single action truss rods seem to work best with a curved cavity and a strip glued in on top to the truss rod lives in a curve. Warrick basses have a similar deal , but the truss rod is double action.
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