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Thread: PSH-1 Build

  1. #31
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Note that the initial one or two coats any finish, be it oil, water or spirit-based, will release some of the stain from the wood whilst it is wet. Using big movements with the application cloth will carry the darker colours onto the lighter ones (and vice-versa, though it is far less noticeable), and can affect your burst affect. Which is why spraying at least the first couple of coats on a multi-colour finish is preferable to wiping a finish on. Once those first coats are on, dry and the stain is sealed in, then the wiping isn’t an issue.

    If you do wipe, then on the first coats, work from the light centre to the dark outside, and rotate the cloth each time you use it to avoid adding dark stain to the lighter sections. Or dab the finish on, again working from light to dark, and dabbing on areas of a similar shade and using a clean patch of cloth when moving to a darker area.
    To add to this - when I use tru-oil I use a brush (suggested by others on this forum) to apply the first 2 coats to reduce the amount of stain movement, then use a cloth and wipe on the later coats. I still work from the lighter colours to the darker colours.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Note that the initial one or two coats any finish, be it oil, water or spirit-based, will release some of the stain from the wood whilst it is wet. Using big movements with the application cloth will carry the darker colours onto the lighter ones (and vice-versa, though it is far less noticeable), and can affect your burst affect. Which is why spraying at least the first couple of coats on a multi-colour finish is preferable to wiping a finish on. Once those first coats are on, dry and the stain is sealed in, then the wiping isn’t an issue.

    If you do wipe, then on the first coats, work from the light centre to the dark outside, and rotate the cloth each time you use it to avoid adding dark stain to the lighter sections. Or dab the finish on, again working from light to dark, and dabbing on areas of a similar shade and using a clean patch of cloth when moving to a darker area.
    Hi Simon, thanks! really good advice and I didn’t really consider the issues with wiping on the poly on a multicolor finish! . I’ll get a rattle can spray of oil based poly and apply a few coats first and then if need more will add the wipe on poly, thanks again for the timely advice!

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    To add to this - when I use tru-oil I use a brush (suggested by others on this forum) to apply the first 2 coats to reduce the amount of stain movement, then use a cloth and wipe on the later coats. I still work from the lighter colours to the darker colours.
    Thanks Mate, definitely will need to be careful on Veneer, it’s got a lot of colors going on so as Simon mentioned will go for a spray on topcoat for that section, on the other sections I’m not too worried as it’ll be a dark stain
    Color all over but will still be careful


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #34
    Hi All,

    Back at it again,

    I’ve been applying layers of shellac on the back of the body and neck, it’s a blond shellac with some burgundy Angelus dye mixed in. So far it’s coming up pretty nice.





    I’ve placed the neck into the body and the fit is pretty snug and I can see that at the neck heel it is not sitting flushed on the base the pocket, picture below.






    Any advice on how to fix it or if it needs to be fixed? Do I sand the walls of the pocket to try and get it to sit flat?

  5. #35
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    When the neck is clamped down is the gap still there? I would expect that when glued in and clamped most of the gap would go.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by vivek_rc View Post
    Hi All,

    Back at it again,

    I’ve been applying layers of shellac on the back of the body and neck, it’s a blond shellac with some burgundy Angelus dye mixed in. So far it’s coming up pretty nice.





    I’ve placed the neck into the body and the fit is pretty snug and I can see that at the neck heel it is not sitting flushed on the base the pocket, picture below.






    Any advice on how to fix it or if it needs to be fixed? Do I sand the walls of the pocket to try and get it to sit flat?
    Hi - mine was the same. How is your action height as I had to make a shim to sort


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by mrpearson View Post
    Hi - mine was the same. How is your action height as I had to make a shim to sort


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Haven’t done that, was wondering how I would remove the bushings after putting them in to check the string action, then came across this video

    https://youtu.be/ykWHdRypMUM

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    When the neck is clamped down is the gap still there? I would expect that when glued in and clamped most of the gap would go.
    Thanks Trevor, was worried if I force down the neck with a clamp would it cause a small crack to form, at the corners of the pocket

  9. #39
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Haven’t done that, was wondering how I would remove the bushings after putting them in to check the string action, then came across this video
    For the purposes of test-fitting, checking neck alignment or angle, you don't need to install the bushings. You can simply wrap masking tape around the threads of the posts to press-fit them into the holes. It's just needs to be tight enough that they don't drop out when your moving the position of the guitar. They will be centred well enough to give an accurate assessment.

    I have some 8mm ID clear vinyl tubing that works perfectly for doing this also.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  10. #40
    I’ve clamped in the neck and installed the bridge, strings the low and high E strings, not sure if I missed something wrong but the action is way high.

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