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Thread: PSH-1 Build

  1. #1

    PSH-1 Build

    Hi All,

    Starting a new thread for my upcoming PSH-1 build, and I has some questions on staining a flame maple veneer. It’ll be first time with a set neck as well.

    Kit is on back order so will be a while before it comes, but want to order the stains. I want to go for a blue stain on the veneer and looking for suggestions on stain products I can get in advance. I’ve come across a site in Australia selling leather stains and they have 10ml samples, how much stain would be required just for the veneer? For the sides and back I’ll use some prooftint and shellec. Thanks All

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    I’ve come across a site in Australia selling leather stains and they have 10ml samples, how much stain would be required just for the veneer?
    Are they Angelus Leather dyes?
    If so, they are alcohol based dyes and can be diluted with methylated spirits. IMO it's a good idea to dilute the colour (to a ratio of your choosing) because you can easily add more coats to deepen/darken the colour, but damn near impossible to go backwards if it's too dark. ALWAYs do test pieces on scrap to get an idea of the colour etc.

    If you're just doing the top (veneer) I think it would be close with just 10ml because you need to account for some loss by absorption into the rag/applicator. However, if diluted 50/50*, 20ml would probably be enough - presuming you can get the shade you're after with a diluted mix.

    *The 50/50 ratio was just an example - you'll need to experiment to find what will work for you.

    FYI: the red ash tele in my avatar was done with U-Beaut water based dye which I used un diluted. That used about 20-25ml.
    My PRS1-TS kit was done using Angelus Leather dyes, but it was a blend of colours and I can't say how much I used. It was a diluted mix though (% colour 1 + % colour 2 + % metho)

    For the sides and back I’ll use some prooftint and shellec.
    Are you tinting the shellac, or applying over the the prooftint stained timber?
    I only ask because shellac as a topcoat is not that robust for guitars, and I would suggest something more durable like a polyurethane or a lacquer.

    Also, Prooftint is also an alcohol based stain and be diluted with metho.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #3
    Hi Mcreed

    I will go for blue Angelus dye, but wondering if should go for a black as a first coat to highlight the flame, sand back and then apply the blue? Or just stick to blue as a first coat to highlight the grain, sand back and then apply a lighter/diluted mix of the blue?

    As for the shellac on the sides and back, I will top coat it with some truoil. For the veneer I was thinking either wipe on poly or truoil, haven’t decided.

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    I will go for blue Angelus dye, but wondering if should go for a black as a first coat to highlight the flame, sand back and then apply the blue?
    I know that fellow member dozymuppet did that process with his quilt top Ibbie clone, and his turned out beautifully.

    (this is the second time this week I have used dozy's build as a reference!)

    This is it here: CLICK
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  5. Liked by: dozymuppet

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    I know that fellow member dozymuppet did that process with his quilt top Ibbie clone, and his turned out beautifully.

    (this is the second time this week I have used dozy's build as a reference!)

    This is it here: CLICK
    Thanks Mcreed, I came across this build just this morning while I searched “blue maple flame” in this forum, and yes it does look impressive. I’ve decided to go with a first coat of black rit dye, sand back and then a blue Angelus dye.

    Thanks again

  7. #6
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Blue stain plus Tru oil often results in green as the Tru oil yellows with age. Go for the poly on top in my opinion.

  8. #7
    Thanks Mate, was also thinking of doing a gloss wipe on Poly, and the PSH-1 just arrived today, will open it up this weekend on the kit and report back, Merry Christmas all


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  9. #8
    Hi Guys,

    I did a light sand of the Veneer with 400 grit, and applied a diluted water based dye, and I am getting patches where the dye isn’t going through especially around the bottom edge, any advice?


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  10. #9
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    I believe you have a glue issue preventing staining. Lots of people recommend a glue removal product (‘Goof Off’, from memory). If that doesn’t work I’ve got other suggestions for you based on my AES-1 build, but try to remove the glue first.

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by DarkMark View Post
    I believe you have a glue issue preventing staining. Lots of people recommend a glue removal product (‘Goof Off’, from memory). If that doesn’t work I’ve got other suggestions for you based on my AES-1 build, but try to remove the glue first.
    Thanks mate, your response was
    just in time, popped into the Bunnings next to my sons day care after picking him up, let’s see how this goes!!


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