ozgordys First Build - DJT1 to Meteora (style)

[Sonic Mountain]

Looks pretty good in the pic. The black should take on a denser look with top coats. Personally I'd keep the maple neck natural as a contrast to the body.

[ozgordy]

Looks pretty good in the pic. The black should take on a denser look with top coats. Personally I'd keep the maple neck natural as a contrast to the body.

I never thought of that. ill have a look.. I definitely want a black headstock though.

[McCreed]

Body looks cool. I also think maple neck, but do like the black headstock idea.

[OliSam]

Oh man. I can see this guitar in my future.........
Beautiful.


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[dozymuppet]

Very cool. Natural maple neck and black pickguard will look sweet I reckon.

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[ozgordy]

ok now I'm confused..

sprayed a quick coat of lacquer on the front to protect it whilst I'm working on it and the silver has disappeared?. Any idea what has happened. is it just the lacquer reflecting the light randomly and it will comes back on finish sanding?

I could put more silver on as the ridges are still there but will it disappear again on the next coat of lacquer.

[McCreed]

probably poly but I will wait till I get the silver on first. I'm planning to use the rub and buff which is a mix of waxes and powder to get the grain highlights and I will need to wipe off the excess with teak oil. so it will depend on its condition after the application and removal process. Ill let the stain dry for a day or two and give the back a go.

Referring to our previous exchange about the finish, if you used wax in the ceruse process, the thinner in the lacquer may have been too "hot" for the wax and dissolved it.

This is purely speculative on my part as I have no experience with a cerused finish. Perhaps shellac would have been a better choice for a sealer. (again, just guessing)

I know when I use bee's wax for hole plugging prior to wet sanding, I use naptha (aka shellite in AUS) to clean off any smeared wax on the surface and it comes right off.

[ozgordy]

Referring to our previous exchange about the finish, if you used wax in the ceruse process, the thinner in the lacquer may have been too "hot" for the wax and dissolved it.

This is purely speculative on my part as I have no experience with a cerused finish. Perhaps shellac would have been a better choice for a sealer. (again, just guessing)

I know when I use bee's wax for hole plugging prior to wet sanding, I use naptha (aka shellite in AUS) to clean off any smeared wax on the surface and it comes right off.

McCreed,

thanks that's probably what's happening. I forgot all about the tin of lacquer having solvents in. Yes it would have impacted the wax. it will need a non reactive coat of something to protect the silver. ok time to strip the front and do it again.

[McCreed]

thanks that's probably what's happening. I forgot all about the tin of lacquer having solvents in. Yes it would have impacted the wax. it will need a non reactive coat of something to protect the silver. ok time to strip the front and do it again.

Again, I'm not speaking from experience here as to how it will work with the ceruse, but if you make your own shellac (from flakes) you would dissolve it in methylated spirits, and maybe metho would be gentler on the silver/wax. It certainly is far less hot than lacquer thinners.

Mixing shellac for a sealer, you make what's called a "1 pound cut". This equates to a 1:1 ratio which is based in the old imperial language of 1 lb. of shellac flake to 1 gallon of *methylated spirits. (*denatured alcohol in the US terms)

You can mix smaller batches but use the same ratio. I usually go 250g flake to 250ml metho. It's not an exact conversion but close enough, and 250 mils of shellac goes a long way. It lasts me a quite a while.

If you have the ability to spray it, it may be better than having to apply by hand. I was going suggest Zinsser Bulls Eye spray shellac (rattle can), but looking at the MSDS, it appears to have some acetone in it as part of the thinners. Acetone and wax would definitely not be a good combo.

I'm probably not being much help to you here really

[Simon Barden]

You could try just rubbing in fine aluminium/aluminum powder (not the aluminium oxide variant which is grey, not silver) and sealing that in with a shellac spray.