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Thread: ozgordys First Build - DJT1 to Meteora (style)

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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    Interesting build. I like the Meteora concept. I look forward to seeing how it finishes up.

    From what I've read, traditional cerused finish uses clear furniture wax as the "top coat" (floabw) are you going that route or something harder like poly or lacquer?
    probably poly but I will wait till I get the silver on first. I'm planning to use the rub and buff which is a mix of waxes and powder to get the grain highlights and I will need to wipe off the excess with teak oil. so it will depend on its condition after the application and removal process. Ill let the stain dry for a day or two and give the back a go.

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozgordy View Post
    probably poly but I will wait till I get the silver on first. I'm planning to use the rub and buff which is a mix of waxes and powder to get the grain highlights and I will need to wipe off the excess with teak oil. so it will depend on its condition after the application and removal process. Ill let the stain dry for a day or two and give the back a go.
    Referring to our previous exchange about the finish, if you used wax in the ceruse process, the thinner in the lacquer may have been too "hot" for the wax and dissolved it.

    This is purely speculative on my part as I have no experience with a cerused finish. Perhaps shellac would have been a better choice for a sealer. (again, just guessing)

    I know when I use bee's wax for hole plugging prior to wet sanding, I use naptha (aka shellite in AUS) to clean off any smeared wax on the surface and it comes right off.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    Referring to our previous exchange about the finish, if you used wax in the ceruse process, the thinner in the lacquer may have been too "hot" for the wax and dissolved it.

    This is purely speculative on my part as I have no experience with a cerused finish. Perhaps shellac would have been a better choice for a sealer. (again, just guessing)

    I know when I use bee's wax for hole plugging prior to wet sanding, I use naptha (aka shellite in AUS) to clean off any smeared wax on the surface and it comes right off.
    McCreed,

    thanks that's probably what's happening. I forgot all about the tin of lacquer having solvents in. Yes it would have impacted the wax. it will need a non reactive coat of something to protect the silver. ok time to strip the front and do it again.

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