What else can go wrong?

[Simon Barden]

Sorry to hear that, F3x. Always painful when something like that happens. Saw and Dremel works for me. I really need to start using a router, but it's so easy to go wrong very quickly.

[fender3x]

I really need to start using a router, but it's so easy to go wrong very quickly.

I have three routers. The one I like the best is a very heavy duty 2hp Makita knock off with a 1/2" collet. It's scary because it is so powerful and heavy, but it has a nice plunge base that is perfectly round. It accepts any accessory designed for Makita and I think the weight helps to keep it stable so it has the lowest propensity to jump of any of my routers. I have had problems with this router only when I have been sloppy on my setup or have not used a guide.

I was given the table router, which is a 1/4" collet, and was a relatively low end Craftsman (which is a mid-level brand in the US). I think the router is 1 or 1.5 hp. I use good CMT bits in it, and as long as I get things tightened down well enough it works OK. The trick with it is to check to make sure nothing has slipped or vibrated lose fairly often. This is the one that wounded my neck, though. It's lighter than the plunge router even in aluminum table

I also have a small, cheap trim router that I will most likely throw away one day. I have heard that good quality trim routers are easier to handle. Mine, even with a jig, has a very high propensity to jump. So if you get one, don't get a cheap one.

I have used the plunge router on body tops and it has always performed well, as long as I have a good jig, and make successive cuts to get to the depth I want. I also have to check often to make sure the depth is what I think. Never go very long with any router that has adjustable depth without re-checking the depth. I have also used this a lot for round-overs on big pieces. Going slow on something flat it works well and is more stable than my table router. I am sure it is more precise and faster than what I could do with hand tools, but I spend a lot of time setting up jigs, so it's not particularly fast.

What a small table router is best for is making small pieces over and over. But, the way the blade hits the grain can be an issue. If I had to do this again I would probably do it the same way, but I would sand or Dremel the jig-sawed piece first to make sure there is nothing for the router blade to catch on. The better procedure is to not cut into the grain the way I did... It's generally more of a problem with a wood like pine that is prone to splitting. But I have had maple split on very small, very thin pieces like pickup covers. On half inch or better this is the first time I have had a problem, and I am guessing it was the fact that the piece was not smooth in just the wrong place. All that said, I much prefer the table router for small pieces that I can redo if I need to. It was actually pretty easy to make t he templates on the table--and I never had a problem (OK, except when the bering jumped off...), even though I was using cheap pine or fir for the template.

So far what my small, cheap trim router is best for is making mistakes.