First build. SG 1

[Woltz]

I am just worried about the angle. Should I just glue it flush with the cavity? I thought if the hardware was all on I could see if the strings were nice and level.

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Are you referring to the angle of the neck relative to the top of the body?

[G-Axe]

I'm no expert, so you might want to see what the consensus is, but:

When I re-set the neck on my EX-1, I fitted the bridge and stoptail, as well as the tuners for the high and low E strings. I (double) clamped the neck down the middle with clearance to actually fit a high and low E string. With this I was able to ballpark intonation and string height and ensure I could sensibly adjust both once the neck has the full tension of all 6 strings.

For this particular guitar it was pretty important, because if the neck tenon sat flush against the floor and back of the neck pocket, it would be way out of alignment. I took my time, trying out different shims to get the break angle right, and spacers to get the scale length right.

But, YMMV. The EX kits need a bit of patience and care in getting the neck right - I haven't heard the same for the AG kits.

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[Tomtom]

Are you referring to the angle of the neck relative to the top of the body?

Just making sure when the neck is flush with the cavity that this is the correct place to glue it. Would be easier if hardware was installed maybe? Then I could get more of a visual. I'm hoping that the factory cuts/cavity etc. is ready to go without adjusting.

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[FrankenWashie]

If you haven't checked your scale length, you definitely want to at least get the bridge in place, clamp your neck in place and then see how it measures up prior to gluing it.

a long straight edge will give you an indication of your string angle and height, holding in mind that you can raise and lower the bridge and the nut to a degree.

[Tomtom]

If you haven't checked your scale length, you definitely want to at least get the bridge in place, clamp your neck in place and then see how it measures up prior to gluing it.

a long straight edge will give you an indication of your string angle and height, holding in mind that you can raise and lower the bridge and the nut to a degree.

Thanks for that will do. See where I didnt sand back and stain back of neck properly. Lol. Newbie error.

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[Tomtom]

Thanks for that will do. See where I didnt sand back and stain back of neck properly. Lol. Newbie error.

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Where it meets body. Haha.

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[Sonic Mountain]

Looks pretty good in the pics mate. There is a lot to take on with your first build. If you go back and read mine (from only a year and a half ago) I'm paranoid about all sorts of things...

A couple of people have already mentioned this, but you really need to do a dummy install of the bridge and work out where the neck needs to go for correct scale length. It is not as simple as butting the end bit up against the cavity.

So put some tape around the bridge post screws so you can roughly centre them in the holes, and pop the bridge on. You want a measurement of 628mm from the inside edge of the nut to the bridge. I tend to go for the high E saddle being around 3/4 - 4/5's of the way forward (towards the pickups) and getting that at 628mm. All the other strings will need to be slightly longer to intonate properly. So long as you have adjustment backwards you are all good. You will probably find the neck needs to be pulled outwards from the body a bit to get this measurement right.

This is also a good time to temporarily install the high and low E tuners and run some ordinary string from them to the bridge. This will let you see if there is a big enough break angle on the neck and that it is nice and straight in relation to the bridge- ie both strings run evenly down either side of the fret board.

Here is a pic of me doing that on my recent semi scratch build:

[Tomtom]

Looks pretty good in the pics mate. There is a lot to take on with your first build. If you go back and read mine (from only a year and a half ago) I'm paranoid about all sorts of things...

A couple of people have already mentioned this, but you really need to do a dummy install of the bridge and work out where the neck needs to go for correct scale length. It is not as simple as butting the end bit up against the cavity.

So put some tape around the bridge post screws so you can roughly centre them in the holes, and pop the bridge on. You want a measurement of 628mm from the inside edge of the nut to the bridge. I tend to go for the high E saddle being around 3/4 - 4/5's of the way forward (towards the pickups) and getting that at 628mm. All the other strings will need to be slightly longer to intonate properly. So long as you have adjustment backwards you are all good. You will probably find the neck needs to be pulled outwards from the body a bit to get this measurement right.

This is also a good time to temporarily install the high and low E tuners and run some ordinary string from them to the bridge. This will let you see if there is a big enough break angle on the neck and that it is nice and straight in relation to the bridge- ie both strings run evenly down either side of the fret board.

Here is a pic of me doing that on my recent semi scratch build:

Thanks heaps for that Sonic.

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[Tomtom]

Hey Sonic. Set up neck ready for glueing as per your advice but I think the distance is a bit much. About 630 to high e saddle and that is screwed almost all the way forward. I may have to trim a bit off the neck to make it a bit shorter. Probably 4mm to give a bit more room for adjustment.

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[Sonic Mountain]

Yes, that seems sensible if the end of the neck tang is hard up against the cavity. A couple of mm should do the trick.