For wet & dry nothing under 800 to start with otherwise the finish disappears really quick. For subsequent wet sanding suggest using 1200, 1500, 2000 and buy some micro mesh Pads to do the very final sanding that goes through 4000, 6000, 8000, then 12000 before you add the car polish. Here is a shot of the stuff. Had to buy finer grade wet & dry paper at an auto shop - Autobahn which is where I bought the polish too and reckon Supercheap should have the supplies too..
Last edited by wazkelly; 16-06-2016 at 05:44 PM.
Thanks stan and wazkelly.Originally Posted by wazkelly
For wet & dry nothing under 800 to start with otherwise the finish disappears really quick. For subsequent wet sanding suggest using 1200, 1500, 2000 and buy some micro mesh Pads to do the very final sanding that goes through 4000, 6000, 8000, then 12000 before you add the car polish. Here is a shot of the stuff. Had to buy finer grade wet & dry paper at an auto shop - Autobahn which is where I bought the polish too and reckon Supercheap should have the supplies too..
I have read that there are several ways to wet sand using different liquids. Can you advice what's best in your opinion please?
Also what does the micro mesh pad need to be wet too? I haven't use these before.
Cheers,
Alkay.
Hi Alkay, clean water is all you need and yes you do the same with micro mesh pads. Not sure what other liquids may be used as it doesn't need to be that complicated.
Without meaning to insult anyone's intelligence here........you grab a sanding block, a cork one is my preference, wrap your wet & dry paper around it just like you do for normal sanding, then dip it in the water to wet the paper, now start lightly sanding on the dry body or neck, these parts will become moist/wet and the sanded bits will look milky and this residue should be wiped away with a damp cloth. Need to dip the sand block & paper in water frequently as this stops the paper clogging up and also helps keeping things wet/moist on the surface being sanded. It is also a good idea to lightly run your finger tips over the wet sanded surface to feel how smooth things are becoming and also identify areas that need a bit more work.
Don't be fooled into thinking that not much is happening due to lesser effort being put in as you can strip lots off in a blink of an eye if not too careful, particularly when using medium range grits.
Once you get up to the micro mesh pads lots of water becomes your friend as you should not be putting in to much effort and pressure at this stage otherwise you may introduce scratches from gunk caught up on the surface of the pads. When they arrived in the mail they looked a bit small, about 35mm x 35mm perhaps and around 3mm thick however you line them up between index & ring fingers on the surface to be sanded and away you go, hence why you needs lots of water or the light touch will not get them moving.
WARNING: if you have any freshly drilled holes or unfinished bits they will most likely swell once wet and a good idea would be to pre-drill all holes before top coats are done so that you can get a bit of moisture protection down into them holes.
Hope this helps in some way.
Thank you very much wazkelly. That's excellent advice and now I understand what to do after I get the wet & dry, micro mesh pads and polish.
This will take a few weeks as you said. I'm on my third coat of Tru-Oil which I'm running out of but have bought more from PBG which should be arriving very soon.
I'm in VIC so I don't have the sunny weather on my side here like you hahaha.
Wasn't so sunny yesterday where some parts recorded well over 100mm. Was out & about in Mooloolaba until late yesterday and must have left the area not long before the mini tornado ripped a roof off a block of units within 400m from where we were. It felt like a cyclone in the middle of winter. All sunshine again today but cooling off as it is winter after all.
Hi wazkelly,For wet & dry nothing under 800 to start with otherwise the finish disappears really quick. For subsequent wet sanding suggest using 1200, 1500, 2000 and buy some micro mesh Pads to do the very final sanding that goes through 4000, 6000, 8000, then 12000 before you add the car polish. Here is a shot of the stuff. Had to buy finer grade wet & dry paper at an auto shop - Autobahn which is where I bought the polish too and reckon Supercheap should have the supplies too..
Well the weather is still been a bit ordinary here but it is everywhere anyway haha.
I have now got 9 coats of tru-oil on(thought I would do an extra one on top of your advice because I have been heavy handed when sanding).
Do I wet and dry with 1200 and then apply more tru-oil and then move up to the next grit of 1500 once that is dry and so on with oil in between each grit. Sorry I'm just a bit confused about that. Above you said 6 to 8 coats of oil and sand back with 0000 steel wool or wet and dry. You also mentioned that sanding back may be done 2 or 3 times.
Or
Do you mean that I should sand back with 1200 wet and dry, apply a few more coats of oil repeating this process 2 or 3 times and then just work through to 1200 the last time and then 1500, 2000 and then the micro mesh of 4000, 6000, 8000, then 12000 before I add the car polish.
Also I watched a video where they said to soak the wet and dry overnight. Do you do this or doesn't it matter?
I just wanted to double check your advice before I go further. Don't mean to sound vague, I'm just not understanding the process step by step as I have never done this before. My last guitar neck with tru-oil was very very average but I will fix it when I know how.
Cheers,
Alkay.
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