Ah yes the old wire the jack around the wrong way trick. I've done this so many times...
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Ah yes the old wire the jack around the wrong way trick. I've done this so many times...
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
Alkay can you please post a couple of close up photos of the PBG wiring ? Might give us some clues why you have no sound.
Have you run the earth wire from a bridge post to a common earthing point ?
Also your switch needs to be earthed
Hi everyone and thanks for the replies.
Yes, bridge post is grounded to the top of the Bridge Tone pot. Is this correct?
Yes, it was the jack wiring but I only have sound on the neck pickup after I fixed this.
Still getting allot of electronic interference. If I touch a string for example without hitting a note it's worse.
Here is a pic of the control cavity. I hope the resolution is ok.
Cheers,
Alkay.
Attachment 8746
....and here is the three way switch cavity.
Attachment 8747
I followed PBG's LP wiring video.
Yellow corresponds to neck pickup.
Orange corresponds to bridge pickup.
Black corresponds to the Grey wire in the video.
Green runs all the way through the body to the jack.
Here is a pic of the jack:
Attachment 8749
Ok,
So another update if this helps.
The bare wires coming from the bridge and neck pickups(connected to the top of both volume pots) look a bit frayed.
Is this visible in the pic above?
Is this easy to trim and tin the wires again?
Cheers,
Alkay.
Also, the wiring I have used to re-wire the guitar I bought from an electronics store.
I showed the sales person the wires that came with the kit and was told it should work because it was the same diameter.
On the three way switch:
Neck pickup. Works but with lots of electric interference.
Middle position. No sound.
Bridge pickup. No sound.
I am learning so this is all new to me. I would appreciate any help. Thank you.
Cheers,
Alkay.
OK..
First, you don't need to run an earth across each pot, the copper shielding acts as your earth.
It is possible that you may have over earthed, causing a short somewhere.
Might pay to wait for one of our wiring gurus to step in...
Ok thanks DB,
I'll wait for some help from someone that knows what they are doing. I don't yet haha, but I'm trying.
My guess would be one of the lugs on the bridge volume or bridge tone is shorting on the copper shielding (or has a stray wire/blob of solder shorting), and that's cutting your sound in the bridge and middle positions.
Putting a little bit of electrical tape (insulating tape) under the pot lugs so they can't touch the copper shielding may help to reduce the chance of any shorts. Pot lugs shorting onto copper shielding can easily happen when you have recessed pot holes in the cavity, like on your kit.
Yhep... Wiring has never been my strong point....Quote:
Originally Posted by Alkay
Thats why I am glad we have folk like Weirdy on the forum, lost count of how many times he has sorted out gremlins for me :p
Ok great Weirdy,
I'll get some insulation tape and update soon. Wiring is something I really need help with and I really appreciate the advice.
Thank you.
Cheers,
Alkay.
wire in the 1st pic on the left looks like its bare and touching the pot?
hi Alkay, the wiring to the jack really should be redone, it's dry, globby and possibly a cold joint that wont conduct.
a good joint should look shiny and not dry and use the minimum , not maximum of solder.
simply reheat those joints let the solder flow then pull the iron away, see if it works any better...
here is wiring up for a 5 way switch i'm doing now:
first i make a little hook in the wire and pass it through the hole in the lug, pull it tight then squeeze with pliers, now I don't have to concentrate so much on that wire... this wire is pre tinned, meaning there is some solder in the strands of the wire.
to do this yourself, bare the wire, cutting / pulling back on the insulation, give the wire a twist to tighten the strands.
place the hot soldering iron on one side of the wire and the solder on the other, when it gets hot enough the solder will flow into the strands of the wire. pull away then, you simply want it coated, no globs or runs, it should look like it was just dipped in chrome...
if strands break and it goes a bit thin, cut it and go again with the wire stripping
pre tinned wire is way easier to work with and gives a nicer result , IMO
this is stranded wire, not a solid core wire:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...A6B67AD4BF.jpg
the joins should look like this, sort of... even this might be a little too much:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...0C8B7D406D.jpg
What Stan said. I'd be reflowing the backs of the pots as it looks like the component was still cold when the joint was made
Ok,
I've tried putting insulation tape between the pots and the copper shielding tape. Now no sound at all.
What Stan is suggesting sounds like my soldering isn't the best which is OK because I'm new to this. I have tinned every wire when I rewired this again.
This is the second soldering iron the hardware store replaced for me because the tip isn't heating up the solder. It's further up the conical tip towards the shaft where solder will melt. When the tip was getting heat I had no problem tinning the wires.
Should I go to a well known electronics store and purchase one of their soldering irons before I attempt to rewire the guitar?
Cheers for everyones input,
Alkay.
I guess what I'm trying to say is the tip isn't getting hot enough and it's been difficult to solder the connection points on the pots for example because it's quite fine work.
I have researched soldering techniques online and have also found that I can use steel wool to wipe off excess debris on the tip.
Is this advised?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alkay
Are you located in Australia?, if so, you could try having a look in your local Jaycar Electronics store, they sell good quality soldering irons and soldering stations, if I were you and I had the budget to afford one, I'd buy a good temperature controlled soldering station because they make it alot easier to get good solder-joints made first time, I have an old 48 Watt Soldering Station I bought from Dick Smith Electronics before they became a Consumer Electronics store, it's showing it's age now and I'm thinking of buying a new soldering station from Jaycar Electronics next fortnight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alkay
Provided that the steel wool is oil-free, it should be okay as long as you re-tin the tip of your soldering iron afterwards, but what you really want to use is some specially treated brass-wool which you can buy from Jaycar Electronics, brass wool is better at cleaning soldering iron tips.
When you go to solder a ground wire to the back part of a pot, use a piece of sandpaper, a pocket knife, or a file to scratch the area where you want to solder so that it looks silvery or shiny, this makes it easier to solder to the metal cover on the back of the pot, you can also sand the solder lugs on the output jack, doing this ensures that the solder takes to the metal better and produces a good solder joint.
Forget cheap nasty soldering irons, if you intend to do more, buy a good one.
You can either use a wet sponge or a brass wool tip cleaner, i use both, i also tap it on cardboard sometimes.
Attachment 8797
I also keep a small desk fan going.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Cheers, that's one of the standard fault-finding techniques that's very effective at locating faults.....good one.
Also are you using an iron with a very pointy tip? Something with a flatter tip might work better
Hi guys,
Sorry for the delay on replying. My mate has decent soldering gear so when he has time he is going to give it a go for me.
I have a soldering iron from a Jaycar outlet store. Its country Vic electronics / auto parts store.
Its a conical tip not flat. No temperature control knob. Salesperson said it will do the job. I haven't opened it yet and still have the receipt.
I have just started a new build posted in this general forum so I'll continue there.
When my mate finishes the soldering on this one I'll upload some audio.
This wont be anytime soon though. He is interstate :)
Cheers Alkay.