NON PBG - LP Build Diary from DIY Guitars

[dingobass]

Ok thanks DB,

I'll wait for some help from someone that knows what they are doing. I don't yet haha, but I'm trying.

Yhep... Wiring has never been my strong point....
Thats why I am glad we have folk like Weirdy on the forum, lost count of how many times he has sorted out gremlins for me

[Alkay]

Ok great Weirdy,

I'll get some insulation tape and update soon. Wiring is something I really need help with and I really appreciate the advice.

Thank you.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[tonyw]

wire in the 1st pic on the left looks like its bare and touching the pot?

[stan]

hi Alkay, the wiring to the jack really should be redone, it's dry, globby and possibly a cold joint that wont conduct.
a good joint should look shiny and not dry and use the minimum , not maximum of solder.
simply reheat those joints let the solder flow then pull the iron away, see if it works any better...

here is wiring up for a 5 way switch i'm doing now:

first i make a little hook in the wire and pass it through the hole in the lug, pull it tight then squeeze with pliers, now I don't have to concentrate so much on that wire... this wire is pre tinned, meaning there is some solder in the strands of the wire.

to do this yourself, bare the wire, cutting / pulling back on the insulation, give the wire a twist to tighten the strands.
place the hot soldering iron on one side of the wire and the solder on the other, when it gets hot enough the solder will flow into the strands of the wire. pull away then, you simply want it coated, no globs or runs, it should look like it was just dipped in chrome...

if strands break and it goes a bit thin, cut it and go again with the wire stripping

pre tinned wire is way easier to work with and gives a nicer result , IMO

this is stranded wire, not a solid core wire:



the joins should look like this, sort of... even this might be a little too much:

[Nickosaurus]

What Stan said. I'd be reflowing the backs of the pots as it looks like the component was still cold when the joint was made

[Alkay]

Ok,

I've tried putting insulation tape between the pots and the copper shielding tape. Now no sound at all.

What Stan is suggesting sounds like my soldering isn't the best which is OK because I'm new to this. I have tinned every wire when I rewired this again.

This is the second soldering iron the hardware store replaced for me because the tip isn't heating up the solder. It's further up the conical tip towards the shaft where solder will melt. When the tip was getting heat I had no problem tinning the wires.

Should I go to a well known electronics store and purchase one of their soldering irons before I attempt to rewire the guitar?

Cheers for everyones input,

Alkay.

[Alkay]

I guess what I'm trying to say is the tip isn't getting hot enough and it's been difficult to solder the connection points on the pots for example because it's quite fine work.

I have researched soldering techniques online and have also found that I can use steel wool to wipe off excess debris on the tip.

Is this advised?

[DrNomis_44]

Ok,

I've tried putting insulation tape between the pots and the copper shielding tape. Now no sound at all.

What Stan is suggesting sounds like my soldering isn't the best which is OK because I'm new to this. I have tinned every wire when I rewired this again.

This is the second soldering iron the hardware store replaced for me because the tip isn't heating up the solder. It's further up the conical tip towards the shaft where solder will melt. When the tip was getting heat I had no problem tinning the wires.

Should I go to a well known electronics store and purchase one of their soldering irons before I attempt to rewire the guitar?

Cheers for everyones input,

Alkay.

Are you located in Australia?, if so, you could try having a look in your local Jaycar Electronics store, they sell good quality soldering irons and soldering stations, if I were you and I had the budget to afford one, I'd buy a good temperature controlled soldering station because they make it alot easier to get good solder-joints made first time, I have an old 48 Watt Soldering Station I bought from Dick Smith Electronics before they became a Consumer Electronics store, it's showing it's age now and I'm thinking of buying a new soldering station from Jaycar Electronics next fortnight.

[DrNomis_44]

I guess what I'm trying to say is the tip isn't getting hot enough and it's been difficult to solder the connection points on the pots for example because it's quite fine work.

I have researched soldering techniques online and have also found that I can use steel wool to wipe off excess debris on the tip.

Is this advised?

Provided that the steel wool is oil-free, it should be okay as long as you re-tin the tip of your soldering iron afterwards, but what you really want to use is some specially treated brass-wool which you can buy from Jaycar Electronics, brass wool is better at cleaning soldering iron tips.


When you go to solder a ground wire to the back part of a pot, use a piece of sandpaper, a pocket knife, or a file to scratch the area where you want to solder so that it looks silvery or shiny, this makes it easier to solder to the metal cover on the back of the pot, you can also sand the solder lugs on the output jack, doing this ensures that the solder takes to the metal better and produces a good solder joint.

[tonyw]

Forget cheap nasty soldering irons, if you intend to do more, buy a good one.

You can either use a wet sponge or a brass wool tip cleaner, i use both, i also tap it on cardboard sometimes.


I also keep a small desk fan going.