ES-3 second build custom.

[DarkMark]

Father's day is coming up, how about a new multi-meter?

cheers, Mark.

It is new!

[Simon Barden]

So given the above explanation, does that mean I should be able to test for continuity between the;
Green and Black/white wires

Mmmmmm, Green and Black's........




If you are using the continuity tester setting on the multimeter, then you probably won't get a rewarding beep as that function is normally on the 200 ohms range setting (or thereabouts) and if the resistance is over 200 ohms, then you won't get a beep as the reading will be over-range.

You'll need to use the 20k resistance setting and measure the resistance of the coil. For example, the Tonerider Alnico II and IV neck humbuckers have a nominal DC resistance of 7.5kohms

So if you turn the volume and tone controls up to 10, and have one of those pickups, you should measure (normally within ±10%)
Green and Black/white wires = 3.75k ohms
Red and black/white wires = 3.75k ohms
Green and red wires = 7.5k ohms

For any other pickup, use the DC resistance value for the green to red measurement, and half that value for the other two.

[DarkMark]

Ok, I’ll check it out later.
I’ve actually desoldered everything and just testing the ends of the pickup wires.

[Simon Barden]

But if you've got a green to red resistance reading, the pickup's working.

The volume pot is the other item to check when de-soldered. Using McCreed's pot diagram for reference, you should get around a 500k ohms reading between tabs 1 and 3. This will remain constant regardless of the position of the control knob. If you get nothing/open circuit, then you've got a broken track.

Assuming that's OK, then check the resistance reading between tabs 2 and 3. With the volume knob fully clockwise (at 10), you should get a dead short, as if the tabs were directly connected together. Turning the volume knob anticlockwise towards 0, the resistance reading should increase until at 0 you have the full 500k ohms (or whatever value you measured between pins 1 and 3). It should be an audio/log taper pot, so you won't get 50% resistance at halfway.

If that all checks out, then the problem can only have been down to a poor solder joint or a broken wire.

[DarkMark]

I should start all my posts with a thanks to everyone.

Electronics (including the wires) all test ok. Must be my second rate soldering skills.

[DarkMark]

Tap, tap. Success at last.

[Simon Barden]

Hurrah! Hurrah!

[Fretworn]

Mmmmmm, Green and Black's........



.

My ex-wife’s chocolate choice, so it doesn’t really appeal to me anymore.

[DarkMark]

I wasn’t happy with the fit of the bridge to the arched top so I built this tool from some off cuts. It’s a lot of sanding but it works really well.

[DarkMark]

Slowly, slowly getting there. Same issues as my first build as I set the neck before I realised about the significant height difference between floating and screw in bridges. Missing some notes in the open position as I may of lowered the nut a little too much and may require a shim. But it works. Leaving it with some strings on overnight and see how things are tomorrow.