Muzza's second build. A 'proper' PBG PRS-1Q

[Muzza]

I haven't even got this kit yet (It's probably somewhere on the Nullarbor) and I've already got a question.



How hard would it be to remove the black binding and replace it with ivory? The neck binding can stay black as I'll be staining the neck black anyway and it won't matter.

Also, and this is a long shot, does anybody know if the arch on the PRS-1Q is as radically high and steep as the arch on the PRS-1TS?

[sansan]

hi muzza...im on a RCA-4 kit rebinding. Only needs a heatgun to melt the glue and some sharp chisel or razorblade to scrapping off..
I found some points with too much glue that took the wood away at the removing, and others that were easy to remove..

Be patient, carefully with the wood and your fingers and everythings gonna be ok..I found it a little harder than other kits i did build before.

S!

[Muzza]

Gracias sansan.

I'm not sure that 'carefully' is in my vocabulary. Is that Spanish for 'sober'???

[sansan]

jajajajajaj, de nada.

Well, you'll got to learn then...remember mr. miyagi trick...

"wax on, wax off, wax on, wax off" XDDDD (not only applicable to polishing tasks)

Sober, but always very carefully. It doesnt usually work...


XDDDDD

[Muzza]

I've been right through the forum and can't find a single PRS-1Q, other than Adam's announcement.

Maybe mine will be the first?

[Muzza]

Couldn't wait any longer for the DT MKII to arrive, so went to the Green Shed and got some Jarrah and Black oil based stain.

This is only one coat of each.

Woo hooo!



Now, these 'Q' kits are notorious for their thin veneers, so I was really worried about sanding through, so just used 240 grit with the grain. I wanted to make sure to get the optimum blackness from the black stain, which is why I used 240.

Anyway, the sanding scratches are more visible than I'd anticipated. Am I going to just have to take my chances with 400 and rub it back, or is there a way of filling the sanding scratches with a clear grain filler?

There is a glue spot on the horn which will need to be rubbed back further anyway. And lots of tiny white glue spots showing around the edges next to the binding.

I don't mind the idea of rubbing this one back, as now I know this stain will work and it doesn't take a week and a half to dry. Just really nervous about that thin veneer.

I'm really liking the quilt - it's almost flame maple-like.

[Muzza]

Houston, we have a problem.

Went to do a dry fit and noticed that the frets are whacko. The distance between frets 21 & 22 is greater than the distance between frets 20 & 21. And they're not even parallel.



When I did the dry fit and hung it on the wall, the wonky frets stand out like dog's you-know-whats...

I'm now worried that the other frets aren't going to be accurate and the intonation will be out.

I know I'm never going to actually play a note on those frets, but they look really bad.

Problem is, I've already started working on the headstock. Not sure how this affects warranty, or even if it's covered.

[FrankenWashie]

Bro, you should shoot Adam a quick email about that fretboard. They do clearly state to inspect the kit and mock up to identify any issues up front but that one seems like a biggie, I'd definitely drop him a quick line.

[Muzza]

Bro, you should shoot Adam a quick email about that fretboard. They do clearly state to inspect the kit and mock up to identify any issues up front but that one seems like a biggie, I'd definitely drop him a quick line.

Yes. I've sent him an email. I doubt ANYBODY would've picked up on that on an initial inspection.

[Muzza]

I spilled a drop of the black oil-based stain on the headstock veneer. I tried to wipe it off immediately but just smeared it.

I thought, "oh well, I'll just use the other side...



"It really does get in!" (Colgate ad - showing my age...)