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Thread: TD's Resonator (GHR-1)

  1. #1
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    TD's Resonator (GHR-1)

    I could not resist and ordered the new GHR-1 resonator kit. I have no knowledge of resonator style guitars - so I will treat it as a learning experience. I have checked out some information about resonators and how to set them up -Stewmac have a few good resources about
    setups at https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-id...up-techniques/

    and spider bridge at https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-id...-guitar-setup/.

    I have a few ideas floating around about how I want to finish the kit - ATM darkish brown with a slight burst on the front. I may set it up purely for slide! Not 100% committed to this! Or try a nut extender!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  2. Liked by: Moparnut

  3. #2
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Looks good in the box:

    5 ply basswood body looks nice. Triple binding on top and single binding on back.
    The back is arched.
    The cone ledge looks like paulownia pine - the corners need a bit of sanding. And a few glue drops will need to be cleaned/trimmed off.
    Looks like the neck curvature is 15".
    Scale length - back of nut to 12 fret is 322 mm, so the scale length will be about 648 mm.

    Mock build to follow.
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    Last edited by Trevor Davies; 25-01-2025 at 03:13 PM.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  4. Liked by: dave.king1

  5. #3
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    If the back and sides look like the one on the shop site it will be great!

    I have heard aspersions cast, but I really like paulownia. It's been used in Asian musical instruments forever. a good tonewood, and it should help keep the guitar light.

    Will you put a pickup in it?

  6. #4
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Interesting that the radius is 15". Usually all kits have been 12". I would hate to have to get another sanding block ;-)

  7. #5
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    If the back and sides look like the one on the shop site it will be great!

    I have heard aspersions cast, but I really like paulownia. It's been used in Asian musical instruments forever. a good tonewood, and it should help keep the guitar light.

    Will you put a pickup in it?
    It does seem to be light.

    As for a pickup: not at the moment.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  8. #6
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    I have sanded around the cone ledge wood, and used a razor blade the remove the excess glue spots around the rim. The cone now sits flat on the ledge. The spider had one leg sitting a bit higher than the others, so I used the Stewmac technique of raising the inner part of the leg on a shim and gently tapping with a rubber hammer. Worked well.

    Then did a bit of a mock build to test for string alignment and height.

    The string alignment seems good and easy to adjust by moving the cone/spider/bridge combo around the ledge and/or moving the tail screw. (This is also how string length is changed)

    String height seems a bit uncertain as the strings will compress the spider and cone. I assume this can only be done correctly at the end of the build! At least the height of the bridge can be adjusted by sanding the base of the saddle or adding a shim. The saddle also needs to be cut at the middle so as to gain access to the screw/bolt holding the spider to the cone.
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    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  9. #7
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    One thing that did concern me was the fact that there is no block on the top shoulder to anchor the strap button. So, I made a pine block, shaped to the outside curve of the body, and glued that into place.
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    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  10. #8
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    That's an innovative solution. Is there a reason you did not want to put it in the heel of the neck?

  11. #9
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    That's an innovative solution. Is there a reason you did not want to put it in the heel of the neck?
    Actually, it did not occur to me. The acoustic that I own and the images I found online had the strap button on the shoulder.

    So, there are lots of easier options!

    https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-id...strap-button-/.

    I need to research more!
    Last edited by Trevor Davies; 22-01-2025 at 07:11 AM.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  12. #10
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    I put a button on my acoustic in position 4 about 2.3mm from the bottom of the heel. It has felt pretty good and does not get in the way of fretting. I am almost glad I didn't know about other options at the time. I think of position 5 as being more modern. I don't think I have seen it on an old guitar, but you see it on new ones a fair amount. That said, I have seen at least one resonator with it in position 5.

    I am assuming you plan to play it in normal playing position, and not face up?

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