Build #1: DTL-1 (American Ash body)

[craig747400]

Contemplating body-through string ferrules. Anyone have a link to how to do it?

The bridge install video on YouTube is on a finished guitar. I would not want to install ferrules on a finished guitar, but the ferrules’ position would be determined by the position of the bridge. *thoughts?*

Edit: answered my own question further on.

[craig747400]

Headstock shaping. Drew up a template, did a test run on the scroll saw with a piece of scrap (to get the speed setting correct), then cut and sand to shape. More to come (haven’t rounded-off the edges, etc).

[craig747400]

The body holes are not quite big enough.

[craig747400]

Hi guys … a plead for some answers to my questions!

[dozymuppet]

In the photos showing the scale length, the ruler isn't behind the nut, so it's hard to comment on that (though I'm assuming you did actually measure from the correct spot to get your positioning right).

With the ferrules, there are plenty of examples on the forum, but the forum search isn't your friend here. The best advice is to get your 1st and 6th holes drilled through from the top first, as straight as possible (use a drill press if you've got one), then get your positioning measured from the bottom. Then there is a careful process of drilling from both sides, with the intention of meeting in the middle of the wood. (There is much more advice available)

One thing I noticed though, is that the string through holes on your bridge seem quite a distance from the saddles, and the lip of the holes seems quite sharp. I'm wondering how that will treat the strings.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[craig747400]

In the photos showing the scale length, the ruler isn't behind the nut, so it's hard to comment on that (though I'm assuming you did actually measure from the correct spot to get your positioning right).

With the ferrules, there are plenty of examples on the forum, but the forum search isn't your friend here. The best advice is to get your 1st and 6th holes drilled through from the top first, as straight as possible (use a drill press if you've got one), then get your positioning measured from the bottom. Then there is a careful process of drilling from both sides, with the intention of meeting in the middle of the wood. (There is much more advice available)

One thing I noticed though, is that the string through holes on your bridge seem quite a distance from the saddles, and the lip of the holes seems quite sharp. I'm wondering how that will treat the strings.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

For the scale length, I used the ruler, starting at the 10mm mark from the face of the nut, 334mm to the 12th (-10mm = 324mm), then 658mm (-10mm = 648mm) to the middle of the high-E saddle.

I’m off to London tomorrow, so I will have a good look at the bridge hardware when I get home and do some ‘finishing’ around those holes if they look a bit rough (good idea).

Your drilling advice was what I was planning on doing, and had seen using Google … and yes, I have access to a drill press and will make sure I have brand new Brad-point drill bits when I do the job.

[McCreed]

For the scale length, I used the ruler, starting at the 10mm mark from the face of the nut, 334mm to the 12th (-10mm = 324mm), then 658mm (-10mm = 648mm) to the middle of the high-E saddle.

I’m off to London tomorrow, so I will have a good look at the bridge hardware when I get home and do some ‘finishing’ around those holes if they look a bit rough (good idea).

Your drilling advice was what I was planning on doing, and had seen using Google … and yes, I have access to a drill press and will make sure I have brand new Brad-point drill bits when I do the job.

There are lots of videos on YouTube addressing mounting a bridge without a drill press, but you do have access to one, you'll have to be sure it has adequate "throat depth" in order to appropriately accommodate the guitar body. (throat depth = distance from centre of chuck/drill tip to the support post of motor/table)

re: The neck mounting holes, yes, you need to enlarge them enough so the screws can be passed through them without needing to screw them in. Usually about 4.5mm with those kit neck screws I believe.

[craig747400]

Thanks guys!

[robsmith]

The undersize of neck bolt holes in the body is very useful for marking the hole positions in the neck. With the neck clamped in position you can either use a drill that fits the hole to mark the neck (be very careful not to cut into the body hole wall) or gently tighten the screws until they just mark the surface of the neck. In either case use a drill press (if available) or great care drill the "tapping" holes in the neck (make sure you don't make those holes too deep), and the clearance holes in the body - these two sets of holes will be different sizes, I think it's 3.5mm in the neck and 4.5 in the body.

[craig747400]

The undersize of neck bolt holes in the body is very useful for marking the hole positions in the neck. With the neck clamped in position you can either use a drill that fits the hole to mark the neck (be very careful not to cut into the body hole wall) or gently tighten the screws until they just mark the surface of the neck. In either case use a drill press (if available) or great care drill the "tapping" holes in the neck (make sure you don't make those holes too deep), and the clearance holes in the body - these two sets of holes will be different sizes, I think it's 3.5mm in the neck and 4.5 in the body.

Great idea to know, but this kit has the body holes predrilled.