Embarrassing admission....Happy Number 38 guitar to me.

[ozzbike]

This is the one with a maple board, bone nut and Tonerider Rebel 90 pickups. Aussie Post hints that it may arrive tomorrow.

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ic-guitar-kit/

[DarkMark]

You are an eager beaver, wiring 9/10th done before you’ve even received your kit. Look forward to see what finish you’ve got in mind. I’m sure those pickups are going to sound pretty good.

[ozzbike]

You are an eager beaver, wiring 9/10th done before you’ve even received your kit. Look forward to see what finish you’ve got in mind. I’m sure those pickups are going to sound pretty good.

Mark, you have hit straight to the heart of the issue. The wiring harness came as Real Parts are just up the road from me and their stuff gets here quick. So yes keen, got it done and just needs pickups now.

The colour scheme has me pondering things. The body has a single binding on the top edge. I have considered trying a faux natural binding on the back edge of the body. I intend to try and roll over the edge by hand with sanding. I have been thinking about measuring and marking 4mm lines on the side of the edge and on the back.....then sanding the wood down flat in between the two lines all the way round. Then roll the two edges over with sand paper again.

I am just going to get a few guitars I have with round over edges and line up two straight edges and see how far I need to mark the lines back on each side. I don't know if 4mm either side will make the right size rounded over edge.

I have some gloss water based wipe on poly....and a couple of little water colour paint brushes. After the edge has been rolled over I will tape the edges and then paint on about six coats of the water based poly.

I intend to use alcohol based proof tint stains all over the body. This should help stop bleed through into the taped off edge areas.

I am thinking to use a Maple colour on top of the body.....the sides the Golden Teak colour....and maybe an Oak colour on the back of the body.

The colours available are here.........

https://feastwatson.com.au/products/...ain/prooftint/

I think I will use timber mate...presently liking the colouring from the cedar/blackwood variety....all over the body and on the headstock and rear of the neck. I think that I will try a different decal method on the headstock.....the quality clear parcel tape over a laser printed decal method.....and then use some aerosol cabots gloss polyurethane to seal it in. I am thinking that I may use some satin/semi-gloss polyurethane on the back of the neck.

The last build I did with the zebra wood veneer introduced me to the benefits of CA glue. I am really tempted to repeat that on the body.....and either polish that to a nice gloss finish...or spray gloss poly over the top.

My parcel postie will be busy but he stays out each day until he delivers all his stuff...so I could get my guitar at 8.00 p.m. tonight.

I have also consider returning to my norm of oil and waxed finishes. Same colour scheme and losing the faux binding on the back of the body......but I would keep the gloss headstock and satin back of the neck.

I have a long busy day tomorrow....so I think I will just get to have a look tonight and she will have to wait until later in the week.

I have to admit that I am pretty keen to get into it again.

[ozzbike]

The new Tele has arrived.

It appears that the Grover chrome tuners are on backorder (Still listed as available on the website...best check before you buy.)........the rest is here. Nice.

[ozzbike]

And some more bits....and the Rebel P 90's...big pickups.

[ozzbike]

I have sanded through the grades, cedar/blackwood flavoured ( ) timbermate on both the neck and body. Sanded to 240grit and then two light coats of the shellac I made....following somebody else's thread and tried a different ratio. The shellac has given everything a nice honey/amber hue.

I note that the body has binding on the top edge but nothing at the back. So I trawled through lots of YouTubeness and thought I would have a go at making some FAUX BINDING around that back edge.

I did some practice sizing on a piece of pine.....4mm on two sides gives you the square root of 32 mm on the long edge and I thought that would be close enough to a 1/4 inch round over bit in a router which I don't have. So starting at 120 grit and working back up to 320 grit I made a flat 45 degree angle between the lines....and then rounded it over.

I have to say the taping up is worse than the sanding.....ouch.

So the video made by the person with the most teeth suggested using two different based liquid materials on the body and the faux binding edge. A risk reduction strategy I can align with. He suggested, through many teeth, that a water based sanding sealer on the edge will not be effected by alcohol based dyes, which are what I intend to use.

A trip through my wheely box of many things found this old girl....I actually got it from a Masters Hardware....wow. So it is water based...raid the childrens art brushes in Woolies and I am away.

This has one coat on and will end today with two. It has been suggested...yes with teeth....that I apply about 6 coats.

I am interested to see how this darker ratio shellac will react to the stains as I apply them. 30 degrees here now and fat me needs aircon.

EDIT:- The headstock is from a Tele Thinline template I found in a pile I had saved on my computer. For the first time on a build I cut the back of the headstock to shape as per the template as well. I looks different.

[ozzbike]

two more pics.

[wazkelly]

Wishing you lots of luck with that.

Cheers Waz

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[McCreed]

This has one coat on and will end today with two. It has been suggested...yes with teeth....that I apply about 6 coats.

I haven't used water based poly or Minwax full stop, but with my home-brew wipe-on poly, I do a minimum of 12 coats on necks.
I switched to spraying my poly (thinned) with an airbrush or touch-up gun last year and I still apply 12+.

I suppose it depends on what kind of feel you're going for.

[ozzbike]

I haven't used water based poly or Minwax full stop, but with my home-brew wipe-on poly, I do a minimum of 12 coats on necks.
I switched to spraying my poly (thinned) with an airbrush or touch-up gun last year and I still apply 12+.

I suppose it depends on what kind of feel you're going for.

This is only to create the faux binding edging. I will stain the front, side and back and then seal/clear coat/oil/wax a finish over that. I am still working on that.

So at this stage it really is only to keep the edge defined and colour free naturally...I hope.

I have read some other poor fellows build thread and his hassles with binding and hidden cracks and stain marks in binding. I think I will tape up the binding on the top edge and also run a few coats of the poly over the binding now....I think I will sand and polish/buff with steel wool first the binding and then paint on some poly on the side and the top edge.

The thin top edge will be really hard to do and to keep the poly off the surface I need to stain. Wow....binding is such a wonderful thing to deal with.