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Thread: Curing frustration

  1. #1
    Member
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    Curing frustration

    I got so frustrated with my first build and DT curing times that I'm starting again. Been waiting over five weeks for final coat to cure. Had it in my warm garage with an occasional light fan and it was still sticky. I did 3 very thin coats of each, would perhaps 2 be better?
    I think there should be more info and realism on drying times and conditions so people can expect the worst and hope for the best.
    Trying to sand it back now but just keeps clogging paper. Guess I'll get there eventually.
    Love the idea of DT stain but very frustrating.

    Better luck for my next effort.

    Cheers,

    Leif.

  2. #2
    Member Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Yeah, I had a similar problem with my FVB-4 even though it was in a heated room. I ended up using Tru-oil for the finishing coats. With my FBM I used Feast Watson stain with tru-oil and that worked well. I can get 5 or more coats of tru-oil on within a day.
    Build #1 - FVB4 - Build Diary
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Current - Build Diary
    Build #3 - FBM-1 - Current - Build Diary
    Reworked Semi-scratch Explorer - Rebuild Diary

  3. #3
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    Cheers, Trevor.
    It's quite deflating as you put so much work and energy into watching and wishing the coats to cure.
    5 or more coats of TO? Do you need that many?

    Leif.

  4. #4
    Member Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Actually I use more, but I can do 5 coats in 1 day. On the FBM I think I did about 20 coats, and I'm up to 20 on my pine explorer.

    I'm not sure how many are really needed! The more coats the better the shine.
    Build #1 - FVB4 - Build Diary
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Current - Build Diary
    Build #3 - FBM-1 - Current - Build Diary
    Reworked Semi-scratch Explorer - Rebuild Diary

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    All depends on the finish you want. Flat, shiny and glossy - then 30+ depending on how much intermediate sanding you need to do. Each TO coat is very thin and it takes a lot to build up a layer thick enough to sand back flat and then polish to a shine. For a rougher satin finish, then you coud just apply 5. If you do any sanding on it, then be aware that on corners or raised areas, you will always apply more pressure when sanding, so it is easy to sand through the TO in those areas. But at least it's easy to repair the damage to the TO. Less so if you sand through the stain underneath to the wood.

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