No. 39 is on its way to me.

[ozzbike]

i did shellac on my MBM build, i went for 10 grams shellac flakes to 100ml of ethanol, then added stain.
i let it sit for 24 hours with mixing and then strained it through mesh and sprayed it using a wall sprayer without a compressor

i did 2 coats of each color for the burst i wanted, and then i did 4 or 5 coats of clear shellac (some of them with a brush) all from the same batch.

this actually worked out quite well, and it was on an ash body that i grain-filled first

Nice work......I just want to get the hand rubbed water based dye finish I have seen so many others achieve.

I have used the shellac as a body sealer prior to alcohol based stains without any issue......alcohol is the key there I think.

I think I will have to sand the body pretty heavily and then reduce the ratio of the shellac to alcohol to even out the colour of the water based stain.

[arie_shapira]

i tried a coat with tinted shellac and brushes, and it worked great.
the shellac just has to be thin enough

[ozzbike]

I am waiting the arrival of some Tru-oil...had to throw the empty bottles on bin day...sad face. The neck looks great.

The body has been sanded to 400 grit...as per Big D and the instructions that came with the dye. It was hard getting the dye to seep into the wood...but much easier to work it around and not get borders/tide marks etc.

Three colours here.....straight yellow....yellow/cedar/green black...cedar/red.

This was first application yesterday....and dried to this morning. I noted a couple of defined edges and got at the body just now with 600 grit.

The 600 grit has now been stained again....not fair to photo it wet. It is now hanging. I think it looks very dark to me...but Big D seemed to want that on his video. Let us see what Tru Oil will do when it arrives.

The neck is looking nice with three coats of clumpy Tru-Oil. On Monday it can be satin poly sprayed....sanded at 600 grit....decals applied....then spray sand spray sand to about 2000.

Big D was adamant about getting the red and brown to stand out....I think I have done that. Let us see what the sand and better staining has done now. mmmmmm.

[McCreed]

Coming along nicely.

I presume you did Tru Oil on the neck to get some amber tint?
If that was your intent, and planned for a poly finish anyway, you could have used your shellac to get the colour. Poly goes over shellac nicely.

I have a maple neck that I'm going to refinish (re-radius and re-fret too) and that's my plan. Enough coats of shellac to just get it's natural amber colour, then satin poly for the top coat.

[ozzbike]

I have some Tru-Oil coming from PBG...but it is taking ages in the mail this time. So naughty ozzie found some Boiled Linseed Oil in the cupboard of many things.

Wiped on...wiped down and hanging...still damp on the surface...one coat.

[ozzbike]

My bridge arrived today ordered from Aliexpress on 31 January and arrives 7th April. That is terrible.

After my recent revelation with Tru Oil dragging colour around I now have a deep golden brown body as shiny and as smooth as glass. No burst.

The neck is nearly done....little error with a four a side tuner going on the single tuner side...oops. Plugged, stained oiled and sprayed...nearly ready again.

May I ask a query?

The push pull pot is 5mm or a little more deeper than the hole allows. I have a Dremel style device with tons of fittings, but no idea of the purpose of each. Well some cut off wheels and the sanding drums are obvious. But what implement of whizzing do I use to gouge out a controlled amount of extra wood inside the control cavity? I have little pink rock things, gold coloured metal things, silver coloured metal things with shapes akin to the inquisition torture chambers.

Your guidance will be much appreciated....oh and I have measured there is heaps of depth there....thank you worrying.

[Simon Barden]

I use whatever tool with a rough edge fits. I try and use the sanding drums where possible, but will swap over to something that can get into a small space if necessary. I'm sure some are better than others but if it's got a rough edge it will work (some quicker than others).

Of course there is the option of using a drill, if not for the whole thing, to clear away most of the wood for the Dremel to finish off. If you can put it on a drill stand (if you don't have a suitable drill press), then that makes it easier. You can normally set the drill up so it drills through the centre of the stand whilst the base rests on top of the guitar.

I presume you've checked cavity against body depth and removing 5mm isn't a problem?

[ozzbike]

I use whatever tool with a rough edge fits. I try and use the sanding drums where possible, but will swap over to something that can get into a small space if necessary. I'm sure some are better than others but if it's got a rough edge it will work (some quicker than others).

Of course there is the option of using a drill, if not for the whole thing, to clear away most of the wood for the Dremel to finish off. If you can put it on a drill stand (if you don't have a suitable drill press), then that makes it easier. You can normally set the drill up so it drills through the centre of the stand whilst the base rests on top of the guitar.

I presume you've checked cavity against body depth and removing 5mm isn't a problem?

Yes I have checked depth. Sanding drums won’t work in the narrow control cavity. Thank you though.

[DarkMark]

I’ve got a little pink rock thing that is supposed to be a tool sharpening attachment when a separate....I’ll just photo it to explain. The wood carving attachments are what you are after. From what you are describing it doesn’t sound like you have one. My personal favourite is a cylindrical shaped one. I also have some cone shaped carvers. Back in jiffy with photo.

[DarkMark]

The cylinder ones (2 of the same type shown in photo) at the 19 fret would do the job. Perhaps a journey to the big green shed is required. Simon’s drill suggestion is good. Welcome back.