It's only for the engineered rosewood necks. They aren't that good and bits fall off them easily. Masking tape glue can pull out small chunks and fibres. You really need to use something like thin superglue or thin epoxy on them to help keep them together. I used GlueBoost extra thin CA on one and it worked well. The GlueBoost stuff doesn't fume like many other CAs do, but it is relatively expensive to buy if you aren't in the US.
For normal maple or rosewood boards etc, it's not a problem.
If masking tape pulls any fibres off of that, then you've got real problems!
Lemon oil or unboiled linseed oil is normal.
You'll be fine with real rosewood - the picture at the top of this page: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=8546&page=4 (if you zoom in) sort of shows the chunks that were pulled out on my first build (it looks worse in the flesh). Waxing the board prevented that this time without seeming to leave any residue or unpleasant feeling to the wood.
First (proper) build: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8546
Second build: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ad.php?t=10229
Today's dumb question: stain before grain filler or after?
Instinct says before...
It depends on your grain filler. If it says it's stainable, then after is easier. If not, then before!
Of course, if you are using a contrasting colour grain filler for highlights, then you need to stain before.
Do you mean grain fill before?Of course, if you are using a contrasting colour grain filler for highlights, then you need to stain before.
Sanding back the grain filler is going to take the stain off along with it.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...