TD's Acoustic (FH-5V)

[Trevor Davies]

I forgot to mention that in the book they take the measurement before the frets go on the fretboard, so it is literally the plane of the fretboard.... FWIW... That seemed odd and I meant to mention it.

Thanks again. Yes, that does seem a bit odd, but maybe that allows for fretless necks as well.

[fender3x]

For some reason they do the neck fitting before they put the frets on. I don't know why. May just be the way they do it. The products look pretty nice... https://www.phoenixguitarco.com/... There are no prices on the website, so I guess if you've go to ask...well in my case it means the only hope may be to someday attempt a build ;-)

[Trevor Davies]

The Phoenix Guitars look very nice. Also, interesting that their classes only have 2 students!

[fender3x]

Agreed! The guitars are gorgeous. I am guessing this is not a business that pays the bills. Nice set of machines, and any house big enough to have that shop in the Garage in that part of LA would be at least $1.5 million or so...and could be a lot more. If it does pay the bills, Jeff and Vic are not building their guitars to get the discount ;-)

[Trevor Davies]

As with the resonator, there is no block on the top shoulder to anchor the strap button, and I like the strap button at that position. So, I made a pine block, shaped to the outside curve of the body, and glued that into place. It was a bit painful getting them into position as there is only the f-hole access to the body chamber. I used an old string, fed through the button screw hole, to pull the block into place, and another string to direct the block orientation. Once in the correct(ish) position I hung a weight to clamp the block while the glue set. A bit of messing around, but it worked.

[fender3x]

I like the way you have matched the on the curve on the block to make the glue bond nice and tight, and held it in place with the weight.

I have thought about doing something similar with a semi-hollow bass. I had the much less elegant idea to just roughly match the curve and slather the contact side of the block with polyurethane glue which expands as it cures to fill gaps. Yours will be a lot cleaner!

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[Trevor Davies]

I like the way you have matched the on the curve on the block to make the glue bond nice and tight, and held it in place with the weight.

I have thought about doing something similar with a semi-hollow bass. I had the much less elegant idea to just roughly match the curve and slather the contact side of the block with polyurethane glue which expands as it cures to fill gaps. Yours will be a lot cleaner!

Sent from my CPH2655 using Tapatalk

As long as the screw thread is mainly in the wood block it should not matter. Plus, no one will look inside .

[Trevor Davies]

OK, so I have been putting off sanding as well! So, today I have sanded the body and neck with 180g to 240 g. Added a bit of pine coloured Timbermate to a chip and some slurry to some small splinters on the back of the body. Re-sanded back with 240 g. Then added a coat of Ubeaut sanding sealer (a thinned shellac).

Next, I will give them a one-pass sand with 600 g paper.

[fender3x]

Looking forward to seeing it with some color on it.

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[Trevor Davies]

The staining and spraying may need to wait a few months for some warmer weather!

But I was wondering - how do folks scrape the binding around the f-holes? I have no problem with scraping the body binding. But, I do not think my razor blade jig will fit in the f-hole. Maybe I need a smaller blade and smaller dowel?