I don’t want to use anything that will change colour with age like TruOil, Nitro, etc. and you definitely can’t use acrylic over oil.
Rest assured I’ll be doing several coats of the Golden.
Another option would be resin.
I don’t want to use anything that will change colour with age like TruOil, Nitro, etc. and you definitely can’t use acrylic over oil.
Rest assured I’ll be doing several coats of the Golden.
Another option would be resin.
If in doubt, test on a piece of scrap.
I agree with the compatibility testing, but I'd bee surprised if polyurethane wouldn't work over it, providing the colour coat has had sufficient time to dry.
Poly would be my choice for both durability and little to no colour change over time.
Edit in regard to post #34 below:
Yes, I should have specified oil based polyurethane. TTBOMK, water based poly is not recommended over any oil based undercoat/base coat.
Last edited by McCreed; 01-07-2021 at 06:18 AM.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Depends on if it’s an water based polyurethane or a solvent based polyurethane, obviously I’d use solvent based if I were to choose that option.
Going to test on the piece of basswood I tested the paint on either way.
In my experience (degree in Art Studio with a minor in Art History/former portrait artist/published illustrator), canvas discolors and breaks down over time when directly exposed to oil paint. It usually requires a gesso primer coat to protect the substrate. I have been curious how it will react with unprimed wood bodies as I have a plenty of oil paints and dye is expensive. It is usually linseed oil based so it might not be a problem in this application since LO can be used as a finish itself. Keep in mind that artist's oil paints have a very long drying time on their own. While the surface of an oil painting dries to the touch within a day or so, some oil paint can take up to 8 years (yes, years) to completely dry. Reading up on the medium you are using, it appears to lengthen drying time when a lot is used. There are other mediums that shorten drying, but can alter the reflective qualities making a matte paint glossy. The thin amount of pigment you have applied shouldn't take years, that is usually with impasto applications. Just give it a little extra time before top coating. Just a thought, you could add a layer of dewaxed shellac as a seal coat and that should free up your options for clear. It's looking good so far! I may do some paint experiments myself for future builds.
For a timber finish you need to make sure it's boiled linseed. I'll stick to automotive sealers and base coats. Expensive, but I tend to be project oriented rather than using what's at hand.
True. Boiled is catalyzed and has additives so it dries quicker. Artist oil paints usually use raw or refined linseed oil, hence the drying time. My long term goal was to incorporate painting and woodcarving into my guitar projects. I wasn't sure if the primer coat would be necessary. Fuzzyworbols has me thinking about it again.
Hi Toolman
Happy to hear from another artist
I well aware of the longer drying time with oil paint, which is actually part of why I chose oil so I can tweak the colour or fix up inconsistencies in the finish easily.
The amount of "Green for Oil" I used was quite minimal, basically a few tiny dabs onto the paint that I then rubbed (lightly) into the body like a stain or dye and then wiped the excess off (working in the direction of the grain).
I started by doing a few different tests on a scrap of basswood to get an idea of how it would turn out. The finish is touch dry in two weeks, but after I've fixed up the sides (in two weeks from now) it will stay in the cupboard for at least a month or two to continue to dry before even considering applying any clear coats.
I know all about using gesso on canvas etc, but this is more of a stain than a "paint job" so no primer required.
My wife has worked for a reputable local art supply company for 12 years and has a wealth of knowledge and experience with various paints etc, I've also been consulting some of her colleagues (who are accomplished artists in their own rights) for advice. We have also talked about possibly using shellac to seal the oil.
I'm really happy with the results so far and would highly recommend this method because it's very easy to do for novices and experts alike.
Last edited by Fuzzyworbols; 30-06-2021 at 10:35 AM.
Sounds a little like the first generation candies my current paint system used which were pigment based rather than dye based. The downside was once you hit a certain level of saturation, the colour ceases to darken, but then again my brushes start with a 0...usually with a decimal point after it ....
I must say, it does produce a beautiful stain!
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