Lyn #19 - Single Cut LP Jnr

[Simon Barden]

*Jack socket hole. The jack plug is on the end of the guitar lead.[/pedant]

[robin]

LOL. OK Simon, looks like I got nothing right on this guitar then. Hahaha

[Simon Barden]

It may be worth seeing of you can get some longer post inserts. The longer the insert, the lower the average pressure on the soft pine. You'll want ones with an M8 thread and a 12mm outside diameter I find an 11.5mm drill works best with them.

The non-splined section is 11.5mm in diameter, with 12mm being pretty much the spline diameter. With a 12mm hole, there isn't much wood for the inserts to grip.

Alternatively, the screwed M8 nut inserts might be better for pine, certainly in terms of reducing any risk of a pull out, though they generally use a smaller hole. Something like this (but more locally sourced): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alloy-Furni...iy&sr=1-4&th=1

You need to find ones (like those ones I found) where the hex key insert at the top isn't too deep, otherwise you can end up with very little of the bridge post screwed in if it's set quite high. Also, 25mm long are preferable to 20mm.

[robin]

Today I got the staining done.

Running short on cash so I had to make do with whatever leftovers I had. I used a combination of Feast Watson Black Japan and some left over black stamp pad ink from a previous build, FW Jarrah and FW Golden Teak to do the burst.

When I do bursts the blend lines are always a bit hit and miss, but I think it will do. Hopefully it will look a bit better when I start applying the finish.






I was going to use my usual finish of TruOil, and bring it to a high gloss, but I don't have enough left in the bottle to do the guitar. So I had a look around and found a rusty old tin of MinWax Satin Poly. So Satin Poly it will be.

The tin is several years old and the MinWax has gotten quite thick so that when I did a test on some scrap pine it left ridge marks from the cotton application cloth. I tried thinning it with White Spirit and Shellite and I think that the White Spirit might be the way to go. It thinned it out quite nicely and had a good working life before it started drying out.

In hindsight I think a Satin finish might suit this guitar. Well at least, that's what I'm telling myself.

Cheers
rob

[king casey]

Excellent looking burst Robin.

and some left over black stamp pad ink from a previous build

Have you used stamp ink before?

May be O.K. but I had dire consequences when mixed with Tru-Oil.

cheers, Mark

[robin]

Excellent looking burst Robin.




Have you used stamp ink before?

May be O.K. but I had dire consequences when mixed with Tru-Oil.

cheers, Mark

Thanks Mark, yep, used it on a couple of builds so far, both with TO finishes. No probs. I have no idea if it is water or spirit based. I guess that might make a difference. I must have been lucky.

rob

[JimC]

Looks a pretty decent burst to me...

[robin]

Thanks Jim, but some pictures do lie. lol.

rob

[robin]

Well its finally time to start putting her together.


Last job was to shape the break angle. I initially made a shim of about 5 degrees and glued it in place. It was initially too steep so I got about to shave a degree or two off that.





Unfortunately, like nearly everything else with this guitar I got it wrong. Not sure what the angle ended up, but it is now too shallow and even with the bridge all the way down the action is a little too high. I’ll use it for a while like it is but I will need to take the neck off again and adjust the angle so that I have the action I was after.


Apart from that (and the first body that split in two and the bridge posts being in the wrong place….sheesh) I am really happy how she turned out.


I was aiming for an original ‘57 vibe. And I think that the Satin finish hits the mark. I know, I know, no Gibson would be seen dead with a bolt on neck, but other than spending about $20K for an original, its the closest I’m ever going to get to owning one of my all time favourite guitars.

[robin]

...... a few more









Thanks guys

rob