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Thread: The EX-4 Explorer Bass: An expedition into the world of kit guitars

  1. #21
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    So I painted/stained the front and sides this morning and I'm pretty happy with how its turning out so far.

    There is some thicker patches of excess paint on the sides from when I painted the back, so once its dry I'll sand the sides back and repaint them.

    It's been a learning experience, but it just makes me excited to do my next build.

    Here are some photos; the first is the oil paint roughly rubbed on and the second is after adding some medium to thin/even out the finish.
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    Last edited by Fuzzyworbols; 27-06-2021 at 11:54 AM.

  2. #22
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    No we play the waiting game for another two weeks for it to dry.
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  3. #23
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    I reckon that's going to turn out really well.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  4. #24
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    Thanks muppet, I'm happy with it so far.

    It's been easier than I had imagined it would be, so less chance of mistakes for a novice like myself.

    As I said I'll sand back the sides an repaint them once the front is dry. I may even just do the solid red for the sides, but that's a decision for another day.

  5. #25
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Looking good.
    Interesting concept... you're "staining" with "paint"!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  6. #26
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Man that is cool. How are you going to seal/finish this? Wax or something?

    I have a process of applying a Feast Watson proof tint stain...then Feast Watson Fine Buffing Oil and finally seal and protect with carnauba wax. This idea of suspending the stain/colour in an oil medium from the get go is cool....or are you applying the stain/coplour then rubbing down with the oil?

    Either way it is a great concept.

    Hint:- 0000 steel wool from the BIG GREEN SHED in a red and yellow "Tradie" pack about the size of a pack of crumpets is an amazing material to use to apply your oil over the stain. It also smooths the wood and removes a little of the colour as I can see has happened in you pics.

    With FW Buffing Oil I apply once a day for 7 days....the first three or so days with the steel wool until I am happy with texture of the wood and the colour....then the last few with a piece of old T shirt cloth.
    Last edited by ozzbike; 27-06-2021 at 03:41 PM.
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  7. #27
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    Planning on using Golden MSA spray varnish
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  8. #28
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I must say that it doesn't sound particularly tough or will provide long-term protection for the bass if it can be easily removed by turps. But then I've never used it, so don't know what it's like. But reading the product description, it doesn't sound like something I'd chose as an instrument finish.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I must say that it doesn't sound particularly tough or will provide long-term protection for the bass if it can be easily removed by turps. But then I've never used it, so don't know what it's like. But reading the product description, it doesn't sound like something I'd chose as an instrument finish.
    What would you suggest?

  10. #30
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Lots of options, all providing a more durable finish. What I don't know is how many of them will be compatible with the oil paint stain you've applied. TruOil would probably work well, but I don't know about poly or acrylics. I use nitro for my guitars, but it's expensive and you need a well ventilated area to use it (I do it outside in a tent for wind and dust protection). That Golden spray seems to be a single coat spray that provides UV protection for oil paintings but is easily removable, whereas you want something that you can apply several coats of and provide a tough protective finish that will stop the bass from getting easily damaged.

    I'd prepare some test pieces of wood with the oil-paint stain you can try out prospective finishes on to see if they react or not.

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