DTL-1SB First build

[DeanCraig]

Thanks for the reply.

Well that's a good alternative. Did you have the pickup in the bridge when you test fitted? You want to be sure you can get the same bridge position without having to alter the routing.

Yes the bridge was preloaded so I know that wont be an issue.

When you listed your intentions in your OP, I immediately presumed you would just customise the stock pickguard.
The way the pickup and cavity routing is in that model, you can easily make a standalone control plate out of the pickguard (or any material of your choosing).
If you go that route, we can help you through the methods of cutting, shaping, bevelling the pickguard material.
You could even make your own matching neck pickup ring. But I can see how a premade chrome one could look good on there as well.

I was not thinking of adapting the pickguard TBH but it has me thinking. Also noticed the control panel cavity was 32mm wide so need to get a 34mm control panel if I do go with an off the shelf alternative.

Thanks

[McCreed]

A standard Tele control plate (32.4mm width) will not work on that guitar due to the curved control route and width.
I don’t know I’ve seen an aftermarket control plate suited to that size and shape. That’s why I presumed you’d be making your own.

[DeanCraig]

Hi I can get an ebay 34.2 mm wide tele control panel - assuming I can get the pots and switch to fit the rout do you think 2mm is enugh overlap on each of the sides (the cavity is 30mm wide) ?

Re making my own that is worth considering thanks - I do not have a router so not sure I could pull off a beveled pickguard design - is it possible to do with minimal tools?

Thanks

[DeanCraig]

The checking continues so I have another few questions please before I begin.

1. The pots with 2 x 2 different nuts and washers. I assume the washer goes over the pickguard then the smaller nut then tightens down before adding the control knobs. But where does the bigger loose fitting nut go? Between pickguard and pot?
   
   
2. To attach the 3 way switch should I be using the wood screw in picture - all the after market switches seem to have machine screw?
   
   
3. Finaly should I stick with the pic guard on my first build I can get it aligned with the bridge, neck pup and control cavities with only a small shave off the LHS of where it sits next to the neck circled - any traps with this approach?
   

Thanks again

[Trevor Davies]

The checking continues so I have another few questions please before I begin.

1. The pots with 2 x 2 different nuts and washers. I assume the washer goes over the pickguard then the smaller nut then tightens down before adding the control knobs. But where does the bigger loose fitting nut go? Between pickguard and pot?
   
   
2. To attach the 3 way switch should I be using the wood screw in picture - all the after market switches seem to have mini bolt?
   
   
3. Finaly should I stick with the pic guard on my first build I can get it aligned with the bridge, neck pup and control cavities with only a small shave off the LHS of where it sits next to the neck circled - any traps with this approach?
   

Thanks again

Hi Dean,

for 1) - yes. The lower nut allows for adjustment of the height of the pot on the pickguard material.
2) - I would not think a wood screw would work, I would have expected a bolt. Others may know more about this!
3) - I think a small shave would be fine. I have sanded (and filed, scraped) guards around the neck edges to get a good fit. With sanding I normally use paper around a block of wood to keep a straight edge. Take it easy, and keep checking to ensure you do not take off too much.

[DeanCraig]

THanks Trevor have hit pitbull up on this one.

[McCreed]

Re making my own that is worth considering thanks - I do not have a router so not sure I could pull off a beveled pickguard design - is it possible to do with minimal tools?

Completely doable without a router or power tools at all. Coping saw, files and a razor blade or utility knife blade and you can just about anything.

[Johnny Bravo]

I need to buy a coping saw and the ones that are available at Mitre10 and Bunnings have very poor reviews.

Can anyone make a suggestion re: getting something of reasonable quality?

[McCreed]

On the back I am after a satin finish - can I just TO it with some stain and not varnish? ie adequate protection?

I'll put in my 2¢ worth...

If you want a satin finish and feel with Tru Oil, you will need to apply enough coats so that you can rub it back* without going through to the bare wood again.
*This can be done with a fine grit sandpaper (600-800) or my recommendation is synthetic sanding pads (sometimes referred to as "synthetic steel wool") I DO NOT RECOMMEND using actual steel wool! (for a host of reasons I won't go into now).

The thing about this method, is it does not really create a satin finish. It gives a satin "feel", but it is actually just a "de-glossed" finish.
If you want a real satin look and feel, I would suggest applying a wipe-on satin poly instead.

[DeanCraig]

Thanks McCreed

The Tru oil is on the truck and Pitbull are sending replacement parts due to the hardware not alighing with the predrilled holes which is fantastic

I am looking for a step by step process to apply tru oil to get glossy front and satin back - there are a lot of different approaches between 4 and up to 30+ coats. I could not find a thread that lists the best steps so how does this sound:

1. Check for glue by using a damp rag then clean glue off using goo off and light sanding - at this stage it appears only to be on the sides and not the front.
2. Grain fill with timber mate on sides and back
3. Sand back and sides starting at 220, 400, 600. Repeat grain fill and sand if required
4. Stain sides and back
5. Sand front with 400 ensuring not to break through spalt top
6. Tru Oil - Apply five or six coats of the Tru Oil working in small circles front, back and sides.
7. Sand with 600 grit every 4 coats up to 20 coats ( approx 3 per day)
8. Cure for about 2 weeks
9. Polish front and if required (ie I want a flatter finish) apply satin varnish to rear.

Appreciate your input

Thanks