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Thread: A first kit for Christmas: JMA-1L

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  1. #1
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    I'd not worry about the fretboard or the marks. The marks will almost certainly disappear when you oil the fretboard.

  2. #2
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    The fretboard is flat on the bottom, and the top has a 12"/30cm radius, so you'll never get a perfect straight line on the top edge. You could file the edge to get it looking a bit straighter, but you'll never get it very straight looking. Oiling the fretboard with some lemon oil, as Andy said, will darken it significantly and make the staining disappear. If you plan to paint the front of the headstock a solid colour, then you could probably paint a straighter join line.

  3. #3
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    OK !
    I just have a question concerning the neck :
    Did I need to work on truss rod or frets first ?
    And how can I check the truss rod without straightedge ?
    Thanks

  4. #4
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Hi Maxence,

    You will only need to work on the truss rod, if the neck is not straight. IN order to check this you must use a straight edge first to see if there is any bow forward or back in the neck.

    Once you have adjusted to get the fretboard straight, then you will check ther frets for level.
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  5. #5
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    Hi Maxence,

    You will only need to work on the truss rod, if the neck is not straight. IN order to check this you must use a straight edge first to see if there is any bow forward or back in the neck.

    Once you have adjusted to get the fretboard straight, then you will check ther frets for level.
    Ok, thanks !
    "Isn't funk the most beautiful creation of man?"
    - Volgar, 2018
    __________________________________________________ __________
    #1st build - JMA-1L
    #2nd build will certainly be a custom kit close to the GR-1SFG

  6. #6
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
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    hi there what paint are you using? i haven't gone to far back in your thread but you have made some real errors in your painting that will come back top haunt you, sanding priming and top coat rookie's make the same mistakes
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  7. #7
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phrozin View Post
    hi there what paint are you using? i haven't gone to far back in your thread but you have made some real errors in your painting that will come back top haunt you, sanding priming and top coat rookie's make the same mistakes
    I’m using Northwestguitars nitro paint,
    What can be the issues ?
    And what are the errors ?

  8. #8
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Volgar View Post
    I’m using Northwestguitars nitro paint,
    What can be the issues ?
    And what are the errors ?
    ok Nitro your not priming it up properly you need to put enough primer on it so you have a margin of not sanding through, the body is ASH? so grain fill is paramount before you shoot the colour coats Ash being so grainy it will suck up quite a bit of primer its a common mistake to get a nice shiny flat finish is all in the prep if your only learning don't be scared to grab the sander and start again, as the paint drys it will fall back in to the grain and then you need to have enough paint to be able to sand that out. when you spraying a full colour you sand differently you don't sand with the grain as all that will do is the surface isn't flat you need to do a circular motion with 120, 220, 320 the anything over 400grit. the good thing is your in the right place to get advice there is some decent builders on theses forums and most will help. I understand your English isn't your main language so translating maybe a problem but good luck with it you'll get there
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  9. #9
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phrozin View Post
    ok Nitro your not priming it up properly you need to put enough primer on it so you have a margin of not sanding through, the body is ASH? so grain fill is paramount before you shoot the colour coats Ash being so grainy it will suck up quite a bit of primer its a common mistake to get a nice shiny flat finish is all in the prep if your only learning don't be scared to grab the sander and start again, as the paint drys it will fall back in to the grain and then you need to have enough paint to be able to sand that out. when you spraying a full colour you sand differently you don't sand with the grain as all that will do is the surface isn't flat you need to do a circular motion with 120, 220, 320 the anything over 400grit. the good thing is your in the right place to get advice there is some decent builders on theses forums and most will help. I understand your English isn't your main language so translating maybe a problem but good luck with it you'll get there
    I use wood filler, and only lightly sanded the primer who I put 4 layers, it's not enough ?
    It was really big layers (horizontal, vertical, leaning at each layer) so It's a bit like 12 layers ! haha
    You think I did it wrong here ?
    I'm not really searching a really shinny flat finish, but after a light relic finish, so maybe it's not really a problem ?
    What do you think about it ?
    "Isn't funk the most beautiful creation of man?"
    - Volgar, 2018
    __________________________________________________ __________
    #1st build - JMA-1L
    #2nd build will certainly be a custom kit close to the GR-1SFG

  10. #10
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    I think I made a big mistake by removing the nut.
    a very small part of the first case broke when I removed the nut and another more discreet on the other side of the nut
    it's serious ?
    how can I fix that?


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