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Thread: A first kit for Christmas: JMA-1L

  1. #121
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    I'd not worry about the fretboard or the marks. The marks will almost certainly disappear when you oil the fretboard.

  2. #122
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    The fretboard is flat on the bottom, and the top has a 12"/30cm radius, so you'll never get a perfect straight line on the top edge. You could file the edge to get it looking a bit straighter, but you'll never get it very straight looking. Oiling the fretboard with some lemon oil, as Andy said, will darken it significantly and make the staining disappear. If you plan to paint the front of the headstock a solid colour, then you could probably paint a straighter join line.

  3. #123
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    OK !
    I just have a question concerning the neck :
    Did I need to work on truss rod or frets first ?
    And how can I check the truss rod without straightedge ?
    Thanks

  4. #124
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Hi Maxence,

    You will only need to work on the truss rod, if the neck is not straight. IN order to check this you must use a straight edge first to see if there is any bow forward or back in the neck.

    Once you have adjusted to get the fretboard straight, then you will check ther frets for level.
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    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  5. #125
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    Hi Maxence,

    You will only need to work on the truss rod, if the neck is not straight. IN order to check this you must use a straight edge first to see if there is any bow forward or back in the neck.

    Once you have adjusted to get the fretboard straight, then you will check ther frets for level.
    Ok, thanks !
    "Isn't funk the most beautiful creation of man?"
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  6. #126
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
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    hi there what paint are you using? i haven't gone to far back in your thread but you have made some real errors in your painting that will come back top haunt you, sanding priming and top coat rookie's make the same mistakes
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  7. #127
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phrozin View Post
    hi there what paint are you using? i haven't gone to far back in your thread but you have made some real errors in your painting that will come back top haunt you, sanding priming and top coat rookie's make the same mistakes
    I’m using Northwestguitars nitro paint,
    What can be the issues ?
    And what are the errors ?

  8. #128
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    I think I made a big mistake by removing the nut.
    a very small part of the first case broke when I removed the nut and another more discreet on the other side of the nut
    it's serious ?
    how can I fix that?


  9. #129
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Oh dear!

    You would normally collect the pieces that broke off and stick them back on again.

    Otherwise you'd probably be best getting some epoxy modelling putty and using that to fill the missing sections. You'd probably have to colour it with something or else paint on top of it with some enamel paints to match the wood. Something like this: https://www.milliput.com/index.html

  10. #130
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Oh dear!
    You would normally collect the pieces that broke off and stick them back on again.

    Otherwise you'd probably be best getting some epoxy modelling putty of a similar colour and using that to fill the missing sections.
    The pieces is always on the neck, but she stand up a little.
    How Can I do it stick again ?

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