It's all in the setup...
This final step will be the most rewarding when you have it sorted.
Hang in there and if you have any dramas we are here to help
It's all in the setup...
This final step will be the most rewarding when you have it sorted.
Hang in there and if you have any dramas we are here to help
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Thanks DB!!, I think I will need help, but for a quick update, the wiring is perfect, it was the + tab on the IP jack that got bent and was not contacting, it sounds GREAT!!Originally Posted by dingobass
It's all in the setup...
This final step will be the most rewarding when you have it sorted.
Hang in there and if you have any dramas we are here to help
At the first fret you should set the action so that you have about .018 inch clearance from the top of the fret to the underside of both E-Strings as per Fender specs, the action at the 12th fret should be about 2.5 mm for each string or about 5/64ths inch, for the forward-bow of the neck, put a capo on the 1st fret after tuning the guitar up to pitch, next use a .010 inch feeler from a set of Automotive feeler gauges, fret the low E-string at the fret closest to the body and then use the .010 inch feeler to check the clearance at the 8th fret, if there's too little clearance loosen the truss rod about 1/4 turn, if there's too much clearance tighten the truss rod 1/4 turn, keep checking till the feeler gauge just fits between the 8th fret and the bottom of the string, you might need to let the neck settle for a while, recheck it again.....hope that helps.
Wot Doc sed
One of my tricks is to use a US quarter at the 12th. The coin should just slide under the strings (on the fretboard, not the fret)
This gives me a good indication of the neck relief...
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Wot Doc sed
One of my tricks is to use a US quarter at the 12th. The coin should just slide under the strings (on the fretboard, not the fret)
This gives me a good indication of the neck relief...
Since I'm going to be buying myself a PBG strat kit soon in the near future, when I go to do a setup on it I might see if I can document it so that others can use it as reference for setting up their guitars.
Hey, I noticed that you shielded the jack cavity on your pic from today.
I read before on the forum that you should leave it un-shielded as you risk grounding the tip of the jack if the plate is a bit too far in.
Guys, could it be a cause of his issue?
#1- STA1M - Completed Jan16 - GOTM Feb16 - Here
#2- IB5 - Completed Aug16 - Here
#3- 335 style 12 strings - 3rd build - Almost done - Here
No #- SG1 'Franck Zappa' - Completed Apr16 for a friend - No build diary (yet?)
#4- 'The Red Plywood Strat' - Completed Aug16 - Here
#5- ST-1JR Star Wars - Completed Dec16 - Here
#6- SG 3 pickups - Almost done - Here
#7- JBA-4M JPJ Bass - Completed Mar18 - Here
Thanks Doc, umm, just a suggestion, can we stick to either metric or Imperial measures, bouncing between . and / is something my poor addled brain cant cope with, I did spent $4.95 on Ebay for a string height ruler, so that will get put to use.
I just did a rough intonate and its sounding sorta not too horrible, the main thing is to let the neck settle.
I did think of that, and it could be an issue, what I will do is heat shrink around the + lead and that would sort that. If there was no contact between the shield and the jack plate then there could be no short. so, trim the shielding back from the top edge of the body by a fraction of a poofteenth and no problems
For sure, it was only just that I wasn't sure what the metric equivalents to the imperial measurements were, that's all.
Fair enough! Im 5 foot 7 and an arf, but I weight (to many) kilos
and here is something I have used for many years and is fanfarkingTastic, simple, to the point and gets used often!
http://wscope.com/convert.htm
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