It's hard to tell from that photo, but is the binding coming away from the body in that curve, as in an actual gap with loose binding, or is that factory glue filling between the binding and the body? Your options will vary depending on which it is.
It's hard to tell from that photo, but is the binding coming away from the body in that curve, as in an actual gap with loose binding, or is that factory glue filling between the binding and the body? Your options will vary depending on which it is.
Scott.
It appears to be glue between the binding and the body. I thought the plain might be to take a scalpel blade and carefully remove the glue residue, then fill the gap with Tarzans Grip and somehow clamp it for a day or two.Originally Posted by WeirdBits
It's still a bit cold down in my garage/workshop but I have managed to fix the problem binding, shape my headstock, mask the binding, sand, sand and sand...and yesterday started to dye the Flame Maple top, It coming along great.
It's still early days, I'm not satisfied with the way the turquoise/aqua colour worked out, it's too green, but a bit of blending will get it right.
I have decided to use Feast and Watson's Scandinavian Oil (Danish Oil) as a top coat. A few coats of the oil and then I will add some polyurethane to it for the final coats just to toughen it up.
Simon
I've had great success with Feast Watson products. I had a green proof tint that looked awesome but I can't find it anymore. Danish oil is great too.
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